Proučevanje sestave kozmetičnih izdelkov za nego kože s strijami

Sonc, Lea (author), Ahlin Grabnar, Pegi (mentor)

Zunanji izgled kože zelo vpliva na človekovo samopodobo. Uporaba kozmetičnih izdelkov omogoča, da kožo ohranjamo zdravo in vizualno privlačno. S kozmetičnimi izdelki preventivno negujemo kožo, da preprečimo nastanek nepravilnosti ali pa nepravilnosti skušamo odpraviti. Pogost kožni pojav, ki vpliva na psihološko stanje človeka so strije. To so kožne lezije, ki se lahko pojavijo pri ženskah in moških. Pojavljajo se na območjih največjega raztezanja kože, in sicer na trebuhu, prsih, stegnih ter zadnjici. Ločimo začetno obliko imenovano striae rubrae, t.j. rdečkasto-rožnato obarvane linearne linije, ter belo obarvane brazgotine kronične faze imenovane striae albae. Strije nastanejo zaradi mehanskega raztezanja kože, hormonskih sprememb ali naravne strukturne motnje kože. Na območju nastanka pride do preureditve in pomanjkanja kolagenskih ter elastinskih vlaken. V diplomski nalogi smo raziskovali sestavo kozmetičnih izdelkov za odpravljanje strij in preventivno nego kože s strijami. V spletnih trgovinah, drogerijah in lekarnah smo izbrali 53 kozmetičnih izdelkov. Osredotočili smo se na kozmetično aktivne sestavine za stimulacijo sinteze kolagena, za spodbujanje celične proliferacije in s protivnetnim delovanjem ter kozmetične sestavine z vlažilnim delovanjem, tvorilce filma na koži in antioksidante. Preverili smo tudi pogostost pojavljanja različnih konzervansov. Najpogostejša sestavina za stimulacijo sinteze kolagena karitejevo maslo, ki je prisotno v 38 % izdelkov. Olje pšeničnih kalčkov in provitamin B5 sta kozmetično aktivni sestavini za spodbujanje celične proliferacije in sta prisotni v 15 % izdelkov. Sestavina s protivnetnim delovanjem je vosek jojoba in je v 21 % izdelkov. V vlogi vlažila je kot humektant najpogostejši propilenglikol (26% izdelkov), kot okluziv slikoni (25% izdelkov) in kot emolient sončnično olje v (28% izdelkov). Čebelji vosek kot tvorilec filma je prisoten v 11 % izdelkov. Vitamin E prevladuje v vlogi antioksidanta. Najbolj učinkovit način preprečevanja strij je preventivna nega kože. Obstoječih strij ne moremo popolnoma odstraniti, lahko pa omilimo njihov videz. Na podlagi objavljenih kliničnih študij lahko zaključimo, da najbolj učinkujejo sestavine: izvleček azijskega vodnega popnjaka, izvleček lupina, vitamin B3, olje granatnega jabolka, mandljevo olje, avokadovo olje, arganovo olje ter silikoni.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: strije, mehansko raztezanje, kolagenska vlakna, elastinska vlakna
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2019
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-109746
• Publication date in RUL: 07.09.2019

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: A study of the composition of cosmetic products for stretch marks treatment

Abstract

The physical appearance of the skin greatly affects a person's self-image. Use of cosmetic produtcs helps to keep the skin healthy and visually appealing. With them, we take care of the skin to prevent irregularities or to try to correct them. Stretch marks are a common occurrence and affect the psychological state of a person. They are skin lesions that can occur in both women and men in the area of abdomen, chest, thighs and buttocks. We separate the initial form of striae rubrae, which are reddish-pink colored linear lines and the white colored chronic phase scars, striae albae. Stretch marks are caused by mehanical stretching of the skin, hormonal changes or natural structural disorder of the skin. In the area of occurrence there is a rearrangement and lack of collagen and elastin fibers. In our diploma thesis we researched the composition of cosmetic products used for elimination and preventive striae skin care. In online shops, drug stores and pharmacies we choose 53 different cosmetic products. We focused on the active cosmetics ingredients for stimulating collagen production, cell proliferation and anti-inflammatory activity, moisturizing cosmetics ingredients, ingredients that form film layer on skin and antioxidants. We also checked the frequency of preservatives. The most common ingredient for stimulating collagen production is shea butter, which is present in 38 % of cosmetic products. Wheat germ oil and vitamin B5 are active cosmetic ingredients for stimulating cell proliferation and are present in 15 % of our products. The ingredient with anti-inflammatory effect is jojoba oil, present in 21 % of products. The most common cosmetic ingredient with moisturizing effect is propylene glycol as humectant (26% of products), with the occlusive effect is silicone (25% of products) and Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil as an emollient (28% of products). Beeswax as film forming ingredient is present in 11 % of products. Vitamin E predominates as an antioxidant. The most effective method of skin care for stretch marks is preventative skin care. Existing stretch marks can not be completely removed, but their appearance can be diminished. From clinical research studies we have come to the conclusion that the most effective ingredients are: Centella Asiatica Extract, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Niacinamid, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil and silicones.

• Keywords: stretch marks, mechanical stretching, collagen fibers, elastin fibers