Pregled kozmetičnih sestavin v šamponih za lase in ugotavljanje njihove varnosti

Hren, Anja (author), Sollner Dolenc, Marija (mentor)

Šampon je kozmetični izdelek, ki je namenjen čiščenju las in lasišča. Izraz šampon izvira iz besede „champoo“, ki v hindujščini pomeni masažo in hkrati čiščenje las ter lasišča, in so ga Angleži, ko so imeli oblast nad Indijo, vnesli tudi v svoj jezik. Sodobni šamponi za lase, kot jih poznamo danes, so bili prvič uporabljen v tridesetih letih prejšnjega stoletja. Ti so namesto mila vsebovali sintetične površinsko aktivne snovi, kot so alkil sulfati. Ker šampone za lase uporabljamo pogosto, je pomembna njihova varnost. Na splošno niso velikokrat vzrok draženja, ker so v stiku s kožo le kratek čas, preden se sperejo z lasišča, vseeno pa se lahko pojavijo preobčutljivostne reakcije. Pregledali smo 100 naključno izbranih šamponov za lase, ki jih najdemo na slovenskem trgu. Med različnimi oblikami šamponov smo vključili tekoče, trdne in šampone za suho pranje las. Od tega je bilo 14 šamponov za suhe in poškodovane lase, 14 otroških šamponov, 14 šamponov za barvane lase, 14 šamponov proti prhljaju, 14 šamponov za suho pranje las, 10 šamponov za mastne lase, 10 šamponov 2 v 1 in 10 trdnih šamponov. Na podlagi zbranih toksikoloških podatkov kozmetičnih sestavin smo ovrednotili varnost šamponov za lase. Ugotovili smo, da je na tržišču na voljo več šamponov za odrasle kot otroških šamponov. Med šamponi za odrasle pa ni bilo nobenega šampona, ki bi bil izključno namenjen samo moškim ali samo ženskam, zato so bili izbrani šamponi za lase namenjeni obema spoloma. Pri pregledu šamponov za lase smo se osredotočili na barvila, dišave, konzervanse in UV-filtre, ki so s stališča varnosti še posebej obravnavane ter površinsko aktivne snovi. Najpogosteje zastopano barvilo je bilo barvilo tartazin (CI 19140), ki se je pojavilo v 14 šamponih za lase (14 %). Med dišavami je bil najpogostejši limonen, ki je bil prisoten v 39 šamponih za lase (39 %). Med največkrat uporabljenimi konzervansi se je pojavil natrijev benzoat, ki je bil prisoten v 58 šamponih (58 %). V šamponih se je največkrat pojavil UV-filter benzofenon-4, ki je bil na seznamu sestavin prisoten pri 9 šamponih (9 %). V pregledanih šamponih za lase je bilo prisotnih 116 površinsko aktivnih snovi. Med njimi so bile največkrat zastopane neionske površinsko aktivne snovi. Med vsemi je bila v šamponih za lase največkrat prisotna anionska površinsko aktivna snov natrijev lavret sulfat, in sicer v 62 šamponih za lase (62 %). Pri pregledu otroških šamponov za lase smo ugotovili, da vsebujejo manj dišav, barvil in konzervansov kot šamponi za odrasle. Prav tako niso vsebovali UV-filtrov. Vsebovali so manj površinsko aktivnih snovi kot šamponi za odrasle. Površinsko aktivne snovi v otroških šamponih so bile po večini bolj blage in takšne, ki ne povzročajo draženja oči in kože. Ugotovili smo, da je večina kozmetičnih sestavin varnih za uporabo v koncentracijah, ki veljajo za kozmetične izdelke ter ob upoštevanju navodil za uporabo samega izdelka. Še vedno pa je mogoče, da katere od sestavin pri majhnem deležu uporabnikov povzročajo draženje ali preobčutljivostne reakcije.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: lasje, nega las, šamponi za lase, varnost uporabe, površinsko aktivne snovi
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2019
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-109489
• Publication date in RUL: 04.09.2019

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Review of cosmetic ingredients in hair shampoos and their safety evaluation

Abstract

A shampoo is a cosmetic product intended for cleaning of hair and the scalp. The term shampoo in English is derived from Hindi word „champoo“, which means head massage and cleaning of hair and the scalp. A modern hair shampoos as we know it today were for the first time used in the thirties of the past century and consisted of synthetic surfactants such as alkyl sulfates, instead of soup. Since hair shampoos are used frequently, their safety is important. Generally, they are not often the cause of irritation, since they are in contact with the skin only for a short period, before they are washed off the scalp, but nonetheless, hypersensitivity can occur. We analysed 100 randomly chosen hair shampoos, found on the Slovenian market. From different types of shampoos, we included liquid, solid and dry shampoos. 14 of them were for dry and damaged hair, 14 for children, 14 for coloured hair, 14 against dandruff, 14 dry shampoos, 10 for fatty hair, 10 were 2 in 1 and 10 of them were solid. Based on the collected toxicology data of the cosmetic compounds, we assesses the safety of hair shampoos. We found that on the market, there are many shampoos for adults and for children. Among shampoos for adults, there was no shampoo, which would be exclusively intended for men or women only, therefore the chosen hair shampoos were intended for both genders. In the review of shampoos, we focused on dyes, fragrances, preservatives and UV-filters, which are especially observed in terms of safety and surfactants. The most commonly present dye was the dye tartrazine (CI 19140), which was present in 14 hair shampoos (14 %). In terms of fragrances, the most common was limonene, present in 39 shampoos (39 %). Among the most commonly used preservatives was sodium benzoate, which was present in 58 shampoos (58 %). The most commonly used UV-filter in shampoos was benzophenone-4, which appeared on the compound list of 9 shampoos (9 %). The analysed shampoos contained 116 surfactants. Among them, the most common were non-ionic surfactants. Among all of them, the most common in hair shampoos was the anionic surfactant sodium laureth sulfate, namely in 62 shampoos (62 %). In reviewing shampoos for children, we found that they contain less fragrances, dyes and preservatives than shampoos for adults. They also did not contain UV-filters. They contained less surfactants than shampoos for adults. The surfactants in shampoos for children were mostly milder and such that they do not cause irritations of the eyes and skin. We found that the majority of the cosmetic substances is safe to use in concentrations, valid for cosmetic products and according to the instructions for the product use. However, it is still possible that some of the compounds cause irritation and hypersensitivity in a small percentage of users.

• Keywords: hair, hair care, hair shampoos, safety evaluation, surfactants