Prepustnostne lastnosti tkanin z dvonitno sukano efektno prejo

Pozderec, Miha (author), Šajn Gorjanc, Dunja (mentor)

V okviru diplomskega dela sta bili analizirani dvonitni sukani efektni preji, ki zaradi svoje strukture spadata med efektne preje s strukturnimi efekti. Prva je izdelana iz mešanice 81 % bombaža in 19 % viskoze, druga pa iz mešanice 67 % viskoze in 33 % lana. Za namen raziskave so bile izdelane tkanine z dvonitno sukano efektno prejo, pri treh različnih gostotah v votku (10 niti/cm, 13 niti/cm in 16 niti/cm), v vezavi keper 1/3 Z. Teoretični del zajema zgodovinski razvoj izdelave efektnih prej, podrobno obravnavo glavnih štirih postopkov izdelave, vrste in strukturo efektnih prej, lastnosti, uporabo ter svetovni in evropski trg efektnih prej. Eksperimentalni del je sestavljen iz treh delov; v prvem so bile raziskane strukturne lastnosti analiziranih efektnih prej (dolžinska masa efektne preje, pogostost ponavljanja efektov na meter preje, smer vitja efektne preje, število zavojev temeljnega in efektnega dela, premer vlaken, premer temeljnega in efektnega dela, dolžinska masa posameznih komponent, smer vitja posameznih komponent, procent vsuka posameznih komponent), v drugem delu so bile raziskane konstrukcijske lastnosti analiziranih tkanin z efektno prejo v votku (ploščinska masa, debelina, gostota osnovnih in votkovnih niti, odprtost površine) in v tretjem delu prepustnostne lastnosti analiziranih tkanin z efektno prejo, pri čemer je bila večja pozornost namenjena zračni prepustnosti in prepustnosti vodne pare. Rezultati diplomskega dela so pokazali, da imajo vzorci s prvo dvonitno sukano efektno prejo (81 % bombaž in 19 % viskoza) v votku večjo zračno prepustnost in prepustnost vodne pare, medtem ko imajo vzorci z drugo dvonitno sukano efektno prejo (67 % viskoza in 33 % lan) manjšo odpornost proti drgnjenju in slabšo dimenzijsko stabilnost pri pranju.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: dvonitna sukana efektna preja, prepustnostne lastnosti, zračna prepustnost, prepustnost vodne pare.
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
• Year: 2019
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-108132
• Publication date in RUL: 19.06.2019

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Permeability properties of woven fabrics containing two-ply fancy yarns

Abstract

Within the framework of the bachelor’s thesis, two-ply fancy yarns were analyzed. Because of their structure, they are classified as fancy yarns with structural effects. The first is made of the mix of 81 % cotton and 19 % viscose. The second is made of the mix of 67 % viscose and 33 % flax. For the purpose of the research, woven fabrics containing two-ply fancy yarn were made in three different densities in weft (10 threads per cm, 13 threads per cm, and 16 threads per cm) in the twill weave 1/3 Z. The theoretical part includes the historical development of the production of the fancy yarns, a detailed discussion of the main four production processes, the types and the structure of the fancy yarns, their use, and the global and European market of the fancy yarns. The experimental part consists of three parts. In the first part, the structural properties of the analyzed fancy yarns were researched (the fineness of the fancy yarn, the frequency of repeating the effects per one meter of the yarn, the direction of twisting the fancy yarn, the number of the twists of the basic and the effective part, the diameter of the fibers, the diameter of the basic and the effective part, the fineness of individual components, the direction of the twist of individual components, and the percentage of the inside twist of individual components). In the second part, constructional properties of the analyzed woven fabrics with the fancy yarn were researched (area mass, thickness, the density of the wrap and weft threads, and openness of the surface). In the third part, permeability properties of the analyzed woven fabrics with the fancy yarn were researched where greater attention was paid to air permeability and water vapor permeability. The results of the bachelor’s thesis showed that the samples with the first two-ply fancy yarn (81 % cotton and 19 % viscose) have greater air permeability and water vapor permeability in the weft. Meanwhile, the samples with the second two-ply fancy yarn (67 % viscose and 33 % flax) have lesser abrasion resistance and poorer dimensional stability while being washed.

• Keywords: two-ply fancy yarn, permeability properties, air permeability, water vapor permeability.