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Pregled in ugotavljanje varnosti sestavin v dekorativnih kozmetičnih izdelkih za ustnice
ID Plut, Taja (Author), ID Sollner Dolenc, Marija (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window

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Abstract
Dekorativni kozmetični izdelki (KI) za ustnice so namenjeni olepšanju videza, negi in vlaženju ustnic. Dekorativni KI za ustnice so sestavljeni iz voskov in/ali olj, barvil, pigmentov in dodatkov. V evropski zakonodaji (Uredba o kozmetičnih izdelkih 1223/2009, v nadaljevanju Uredba) so v prilogah IV in V našteti konzervansi in barvila, ki so v kozmetičnih izdelkih dovoljeni. Ker sta ravno ti dve skupini sestavin navadno med najbolj problematičnimi v dekorativni kozmetiki za ustnice, smo ju podrobnejše raziskali. Raziskavo smo opravili na 76 izdelkih različnih skupin dekorativne kozmetike za ustnice, med katerimi je bilo 28 šmink, 22 leščil in 26 črtal za ustnice. Uporabili smo izdelke poznanih in priljubljenih blagovnih znamk, ki so nižjega do srednjega cenovnega razreda. Vse izdelke lahko najdemo na slovenskem tržišču. Na podlagi dobljenih rezultatov in podatkov smo naredili pregled in primerjavo sestavin različnih izdelkov in primerjali tudi izdelke znotraj iste blagovne znamke. Preverili smo tudi, ali so na vseh izdelkih navedene in ustrezno označene sestavine. Rezultati so pokazali, da največje število barvil vsebujejo črtala za ustnice in šminke, to je 9, kar pomeni, da obstaja večja možnost neželenih učinkov kot pri uporabi leščil, ki vsebujejo povprečno 7 barvil. Največje povprečno število konzervansov vsebujejo leščila, sledijo šminke in nato črtala za ustnice. Vsi izdelki vsebujejo med 0 in 1 konzervansa. Opazili smo, da se iste znamke poslužujejo podobnih sestavin. Pri nekaterih izdelkih na spletu smo opazili, da nimajo ustrezno označenih sestavin, zato jih za raziskavo nismo uporabili. Na osnovi toksikoloških parametrov in pregledanem toksikološkem profilu smo ocenili varnost najpogosteje uporabljenim barvilom in konzervansom v proučevanih izdelkih. Višja vrednost LD50 pomeni varnejšo sestavino, v primeru akutne izpostavitve. Tako lahko pri akutni izpostavitvi kot najvarnejše barvilo v pregledanih izdelkih uvrstimo CI 15850 in kot najvarnejši konzervans propilparaben, kljub njegovi potencialni endokrini aktivnosti, saj le-ta v kozmetičnih izdelkih ni dokazana. Za kronično izpostavitev snovi je toksikološki parameter za oceno varnosti NOAEL in sicer višja vrednost pomeni varnejši izdelek. Pri barvilih smo le v redkih primerih našli podatek NOAEL, zato težko ocenimo varnost glede na ta parameter. Med konzervansi ima najvišji NOAEL propilparaben, ki pa je, kot že prej omenjeno, vprašljiv iz vidika varnosti zaradi njegove potencialne endokrine aktivnosti. Pri izbranih dekorativnih kozmetičnih izdelkih za ustnice je tako potrebna posebna pozornost, saj se nanašajo na neposredno bližino ustne votline in sestavine skoraj zagotovo tudi zaužijemo.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:dekorativni kozmetični izdelki, ustnice, ocena varnosti, šminka, leščilo, črtalo za ustnice
Work type:Bachelor thesis/paper
Organization:FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
Year:2019
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-107724 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:17.05.2019
Views:1120
Downloads:430
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:Review of ingredients and their safety evaluation in decorative lip cosmetic products
Abstract:
Decorative lip cosmetic products are essentially designed to embellish the appearance of our lips and are also focused on lip care and moisturizing. Decorative lip cosmetic priducts are composed of waxes and / or oils, dyes, pigments and additives. In the European legislation (Decree on cosmetic products 1223/2009), the preservatives and coloring agents are listed in Annexes IV and V. Since these two groups of ingredients are usually among the most problematic in decorative lip cosmetics, we have studied them in a more detailed way. We conducted a study on 76 products of various groups of decorative lip cosmetics, among which 28 were lipsticks, 22 lip glosses and 26 lip liners. We used products of famous and popular brands that are lower to middle price range. All products can be found on the Slovenian market. Based on the results and data obtained, we made an overview and comparison of different products and compared products within the same brand. We also checked whether ingredients were listed and labeled on all products. The results showed that the maximum number of dyes contain lip liners and lipsticks, it's 9, which means that there is a greater chance of side effects than with the use of lip glosses, which contain on average 7 dyes. The maximum number of preservatives contain lip glosses than lipsticks and the last lip liners. All the products contain 0-1 of preservative. We have noticed that the same brands use similar ingredients. When researching online products, we noticed that some of them do not have properly labeled ingredients, so we didn't use them for our research. Based on toxicological parameters and determined toxicologal profile we evaluate the safety of the most commonly used dyes and preservatives in the products we've researched. The higher the value of the LD50 (the lethal dose of the substance which causes death in half of the animals tested) is, the more the ingredient is safe, in case of acute exposure. Therefore in case of acute exposure, CI 15850 was classified as the safest dye and propylparaben as the safest preservative even if it is a hormone disruptor, because it has never been proved that it is hormone disruptor in cosmetics. For cronical exposure toxicological parameter for safety assessment is NOAEL The higher the value is, the more the ingredient is safe. For dyes we didn't find enought NOAEL data to evaluate safety by this parameter. Between preservatives, propylparaben has the highest value of NOAEL, but as said before, because it is a hormone disruptor, its safety is questionable. Nevertheless, the selected products require special attention because they refer to the immediate vicinity of the oral cavity and the ingredients are almost certainly consumed.

Keywords:decorative cosmetic products, lips, safety evaluation, lipstick, lipgloss, lip liner

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