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Vetements: družbeni in kulturni pomen postsovjetske estetike v sodobni modi
ID Pucelj, Denis (Author), ID Luthar, Breda (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window, ID Pušnik, Maruša (Comentor)

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Abstract
Magistrsko delo predstavlja analizo postsovjetske estetike v sodobni modi in industrijskih teženj po njenem označevanju kot predstavnice sodobne antimode. Pri tem se delo osredotoča na načine, prek katerih sistem mode zamišlja biografije oblačil blagovne znamke Vetements, katere kolektiv ses-tavljajo modni oblikovalci iz držav Vzhodne Evrope. Skozi kritično analizo diskurza avtor anti-modnost Vetements opredeljuje kot konstrukt orientaliziranja, ki estetiko oblačil in artističnih praks opisuje v diskurzivnih kategorijah mitiziranja Vzhodne Evrope po padcu Berlinskega zidu. Kot avtor zagovarja, je v sodobni družbi znamčenje poglavitni ekonomski in kulturni proces, katerega naloga je zamišljanje biografij oblačil. Predmet opazovanja so tako bila 3 izbrana modna sodelovanja Vetements z zahodnimi blagovnimi znamkami: Vetements x Levi’s, Vetements x Tommy Hilfiger in Vetements x Eastpak. Skozi analizo je bila razkrita orientalistična binarna dihotomija vrednot, ki Vetements pozicionira kot transgresivno (Vzhodno) blagovno znamko, izbrane blagovne znamke pa kot ikonske, reprezentativne sodobnega, vsakdanjega, vseprisotnega (Zahodnega) načina življenja. Tako delo utemeljuje postsovjetsko estetiko oziroma njene reprezentacije v sodobni modi kot rezultat postkolonialističnih diskurzov.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:antimoda, Vetements, socializem, orientalizem, sistem mode
Work type:Master's thesis/paper
Organization:FDV - Faculty of Social Sciences
Year:2018
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-105293 This link opens in a new window
COBISS.SI-ID:35986269 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:21.11.2018
Views:2270
Downloads:346
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:Vetements: Understanding the socio-cultural implications of Post-Soviet aesthetic in modern fashion
Abstract:
Master's thesis introduces a critical reflection on current representations of post-soviet aeshetic in modern fashion and questions its modern anti-fashion role it inhabits in the global fashion market. The thesis therefore argues how biographies of clothes are constantly imagined and reproduced through the fashion system. The focus is put on fashion label Vetements, which fashion designers all have Eastern Europe origins. Using the method of critical discourse analysis, the author posits anti-fashion of Vetements as a product of orientalisation, through which the aesthetic and materiality of clothes are mythologized using imagery and myths of Eastern Europe after the fall of Berlin Wall. As the author argues, in modern society branding is key marketing tool through which biographies of clothes are imagined. The analysis is therefore focused on 3 key collaborations: Vetements x Levi's, Vetements x Tommy Hilfiger and Vetements x Eastpak. The author thus argues how these collaborations are based in reproducing the binary discoursive value system, through which the clothes of Vetements are orientalised as transgressive (Eastern), while the chosen brands are represented as dominant, everyday and global brands, which define the modern (West) way of life. In this way the thesis concludes how the use and representations of post-soviet aesthetic are results of post-colonial discoursive practices.

Keywords:anti-fashion, Vetements, socialism, orientalism, fashion system

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