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Oblikovanje reliefnih tekstur v kolekciji ženskih oblačil
Jerič, Petra (Author), Fajt, Elena (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window

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Abstract
Cilj naloge je oblikovanje dveh kolekcij, ki temeljita na raziskovanju oblikovanja reliefnih tekstur s pomočjo ročnih tehnik. Gre za metodo oblikovanja s pomočjo poskušanja, pri kateri s pomočjo različnih ročnih tehnik in njihovimi kombinacijami poskušam najti najboljšo rešitev. Inspiracijo za teksturo črpam v ročno narejenem predpražniku iz ličkanja. Najprimernejše teksture dobim s pomočjo ročnih tehnik prešivanja in smoka ter s posebno kombinacijo obeh tehnik. Obe tehniki ter inspiracija kolekcije me privedejo do oblikovanja nekoliko drugačnih silhuet s poudarkom na deformaciji rokavov, pri čemer se rokavna okroglina v celoti pomakne na sprednji del kroja. Ženska silhueta se je skozi zgodovino zelo spreminjala. Od lahkotnih drapiranih oblek antike do velikanskih krinolin in ozkih steznikov. V sodobni modi se s silhueto in njeno reinterpretacijo med drugimi ukvarja tudi modna znamka Commes des Garçons, kjer gre predvsem za nenavadno in ekstremno povečavo silhuet. V teoretičnem delu diplomske naloge predstavljam tudi ročni tehniki prešivanja in smoka ter njuno zgodovino, različne variante obeh tehnik ter tudi nekaj sodobnih primerov kolekcij, ki vključujejo omenjeni tehniki. V praktičnem delu opisujem inspiracijo za kolekcijo ter raziskujem različne teksture s pomočjo tehnik prešivanja in smoka. Preučujem materiale, ki omogočajo najlepšo izvedbo tehnik. V tem delu predstavljam tudi inspiracijo in vzdušje kolekcije ter barvno paleto in ciljno skupino. Moja prva kolekcija je zaradi narave tehnik in glavne inspiracije kolekcije manj primerna za vsakdanjo rabo. Gre predvsem za izraz občutij, tekstur in materialov na telo. V praktičnem delu diplomske naloge tako iz prve kolekcije izpeljem še eno kolekcijo, pri kateri gre za uporabo ročnih tehnik do te mere, da so oblačila bolj nosljiva. Nosljivost oblačil dosegam s preprostejšimi oblikami silhuet ter uporabo tanjše pene za podložitev. Hkrati uporabim tudi obojestransko lastnost obeh tehnik in tako oblikujem reverzibilno kolekcijo oblačil. Cilj diplomske naloge je torej izdelati tako eksperimentalno kot tudi obojestransko kolekcijo oblačil, ki temeljita na popolnoma istem izhodišču. Raziskujem, kako prilagoditi reliefne teksture v primeru nosljive kolekcije ter kako jih poudariti v eksperimentalni kolekciji.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:silhueta, ročna tehnika, prešivanje, smok, reliefne teksture
Work type:Bachelor thesis/paper (mb11)
Organization:NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
Year:2018
Views:359
Downloads:142
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:Designing relief textures in women's collection
Abstract:
The aim of the thesis is to create two collections based on the research of relief textures design using manual techniques. It is a design method of experimenting and trying to find the best solution using various manual techniques and their combinations. The inspiration for the texture is a hand-made doormat made of corn husk. I get the most suitable texture with manual quilting and smocking and a special combination of both techniques. Both the technique and the inspiration for the collection lead me to designing slightly different silhouettes with emphasis on deformation of the sleeves, with the sleeve circle moving completely to the front of the cut. Women's silhouette has changed a lot throughout history. From lightly draped dresses of antiquity to giant crinolines and narrow corsets. In modern fashion, the Commes des Garçons brand is the one among the others that deals with silhouette deformation, where they primarily deal with unusual and extremely magnified silhouettes. In the theoretical part of the thesis, I also present the manual techniques of quilting and smocking and their history, various variants of both techniques, as well as some contemporary examples of collections that include these techniques. In the practical part, I describe the inspiration for the collection and explore different textures through quilting and smocking techniques. I'm studying materials that enable the most beautiful result with the two techniques. In this part I also present the inspiration and atmosphere of the collection, the colour palette and the target group. Due to the nature of the techniques and the main inspiration for the collection, my first collection is less suitable for everyday use. It is primarily the expression of feelings, textures and materials on the body. Thus, in the practical part of my thesis I carry out another collection form the first one, which involves the use of manual techniques to the extent that the clothes are more wearable. The wearability of clothes is achieved through simpler silhouettes and the use of a thinner foam for laying. At the same time, I use the two-sided feature of both techniques and thus form a reversible collection of clothes. The aim of the thesis is to produce both the experimental as well as the two-sided collection of clothes, based on exactly the same starting point. I am researching how to adapt relief textures in the case of the wearable collection and how to emphasize them in the experimental collection.

Keywords:silhouette, manual technique, quilting, smocking, relief textures

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