Vpliv air-jet in vortex prej na funkcionalnost tkanin

Glažar, Dominika (author), Šajn Gorjanc, Dunja (mentor)

V okviru diplomske naloge je bil obravnavan vpliv curkovne – air-jet in curkovne – vortex preje na funkcionalnost tkanin. Curkovna – air-jet preja in curkovna – vortex preja v votku sta bili izdelani iz mešanice 65 % PES in 35 % CO-vlaken in dolžinske mase 20 tex. Za primerjavo je bila izbrana klasična prstanska preja enake surovinske sestave in dolžinske mase. Iz prstanske, curkovne – air-jet in curkovne – vortex preje so bile v nadaljevanju raziskave izdelane tudi tkanine v vezavi keper 1/3 Z pri dveh različnih gostotah v smeri votka (20 in 30 niti/cm). V prvem delu raziskave so bile izmerjene fizikalne lastnosti izbranih prej in izdelanih tkanin (dolžinska masa preje, premer preje, koeficient trenja preje ter ploščinska masa in debelina, dejanska gostota in volumska poroznost izdelanih tkanin). V drugem delu raziskave so bile izmerjene mehanske lastnosti prej in tkanin (pretržna sila, pretržni raztezek, točka polzišča in modul elastičnosti), v tretjem delu raziskave pa je bila večja pozornost namenjena prepustnostnim lastnostim izdelanih tkanin (zračna prepustnost, prepustnost vodne pare) ter obrabljivosti tkanin (odpornost proti drgnjenju) s curkovnima prejama v votku (air-jet in vortex preja) v primerjavi s tkaninama s klasično prstansko prejo v votku. Rezultati raziskave so pokazali, da ima prstanska preja zaradi pravega vitja najvišjo pretržno napetost in raztezek, modul elastičnosti, elastični povratek, procent krčenja in koeficient trenja glede na curkovni preji (air-jet in vortex). Rezultati raziskave so tudi pokazali, da imata tkanini s prstansko prejo v votku najvišjo pretržno napetost, zračno prepustnost in pri manjši gostoti votka (20 niti/cm) tudi najvišjo prepustnost vodne pare. Rezultati raziskave so tudi pokazali, da se izmerjene vrednosti curkovne – vortex preje kot tudi tkanin s curkovno – vortex prejo v votku najbolj približajo rezultatom izmerjenih vrednosti za tkanine s prstansko prejo v votku, ki ima glede na curkovno – air-jet in curkovno – vortex prejo idealno strukturo.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: curkovna preja – air-jet, curkovna preja – vortex, prstanska preja, mehanske lastnosti, prepustnostne lastnosti
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
• Year: 2018
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-101575
• Publication date in RUL: 17.06.2018

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Impact of air-jet and vortex yarn on funcionality of woven fabric

Abstract

The diploma thesis deals with the influence of air-jet and air-jet-vortex yarn on the functionality of fabric. Air-jet yarn and air-jet-vortex yarn in the weft were made of 65% PES and 35% CO fibers and fineness 20 tex. For comparison, a ring spun with the same chemical compositions and fineness was selected. In further research, woven fabrics in the twill weave 1/3 Z in two different densities in the weft direction (20 and 30 threads/cm) were produced from the ring spun yarn, air-jet yarn and the air-jet-vortex yarn. The first part of the research provides measurements of the physical properties of the analyzed yarns and of the produced woven fabrics (fineness of yarn, yarn diameter, coefficient of friction and mass, thickness, actual density and volumetric porosity of the produced woven fabrics). In the second part of the research the mechanical properties of the analyzed yarns and of the produced woven fabrics were measured (breaking force, breaking elongation, yield point and elasticity modulus), while in the third part of the research more focus was placed on permeability properties (air permeability, water vapor permeability) and abrasion resistance of the fabrics with air-jet yarns in the weft (air-jet yarn and air-jet-vortex yarn) in comparison to those with ring spun yarn in the weft. Research results show that due to the real twist the ring spun yarn has the highest breaking point and the highest elasticity modulus, elastic recovery, shrinkage and coefficient of friction according to air-jet yarns (air-jet yarn and vortex air-jet yarn). The results also indicate that fabrics with ring spun yarn in the weft have the highest breaking force, air permeability and, at lower density of weft (20 threads/cm), they also have the highest water vapor permeability. The measured values of air-jet-vortex yarn and of fabric with air-jet-vortex in the weft come closest to the results of the measured values for fabrics with a ring spun yarn in weft, which in terms of air-jet yarn and air-jet-vortex yarn has an ideal structure.

• Keywords: air-jet yarn, vortex yarn, ring spun yarn, mechanical properties, permeability properties