Ženska kolekcija oblačil Oživitev obdobja Kate Mess

Bolhar, Nina (author), Fajt, Elena (mentor)

Diplomsko delo z naslovom "Ženska kolekcija oblačil Oživitev obdobja Kate Moss" predstavlja proces oblikovanja unikatne kolekcije ženskih oblačil z izhodiščem v grungevskem gibanju devetdesetih let. Različno usmerjena glasbena gibanja so imela v devetdesetih letih velik vpliv, sploh na mlade odrasle, k čemur so pripomogli znani glasbeniki in manekenke. Ta vpliv je bil hitro prepoznan s strani modne industrije, ki je začela vključevati elemente teh gibanj v svoje kolekcije. Glasba in moda sta si torej že od samih začetkov zelo blizu in lahko tako rekoč z roko v roki zelo dobro funkcionirata. Fokus celotnega dela je bil na obdobju prihoda grunge stila, natančneje njegovih podskupin, kot sta heroin šik in boho šik, katerih najbolj znana predstavnica je bila Kate Moss. To gibanje je v družbo prineslo veliko nesoglasij in uporništva med mladimi, prav tako je povzročilo povečanje uporabe drog in alkohola, kar je vodilo v številne smrtne tragedije. Zaradi tega so bili omenjeni stili kasneje izključeni iz modnega sveta. Teoretični del zajema pregled zgodovine in razvoja grunge stila, s poudarkom na vplivu znane skupine Nirvana, ki je kasneje pridobila več podskupin. V nadaljevanju je podrobno obravnavan vpliv grunge estetike na visoko in ulično modo skozi čas, od začetka pa vse do danes. Posebna pozornost je namenjena tudi uporabi odpadnega usnja in krzna ter njuni zgodovini, kar je bilo temeljito raziskano v teoretičnem delu. V eksperimentalnem delu je bila zasnovana unikatna kolekcija, navdihnjena s podskupinama heroin šik in boho šik. Glavni izziv je bil ustvariti kolekcijo, ki bi združevala elemente grungea in poudarjala lepoto ženske tistega časa, a z novim, sodobnim pridihom. To je bilo doseženo z vključevanjem res, čipk, različnih boemskih vzorcev ter naravnih in prosojnih materialov v zelo ženstvenih silhuetah. Značilnosti tistega obdobja so bile raziskane in projicirane na oblačila v kolekciji. Uporaba odpadnega usnja in krzna je dodatno podprla eno glavnih sporočil grunge gibanja – trajnost in ležerno spontanost. Oblikovana je bila avtorska kolekcija, ki obsega šest silhuet, od katerih so bile izdelane štiri. Kolekcija združuje tradicionalne in sodobne elemente ter ustvarja harmonijo med surovostjo grungea in prefinjenostjo ženskosti.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: grunge, boho šik, heroin šik, Kate Moss, usnje, krzno, kolekcija, trajnost
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
• Year: 2024
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-161019
• Publication date in RUL: 06.09.2024

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Women’s clothing collection The Kate Mess Era Revival

Abstract

The diploma thesis Women's Clothing Collection: The Kate Mess Era Revival presents the process of designing a unique collection of women’s clothing inspired by the grunge movement of the 1990s. Various musical movements had a significant influence in the 1990s, especially on young adults, aided by prominent musicians and models. This influence was quickly recognized by the fashion industry, which began incorporating elements of these movements into its collections. The focus of the entire work was on the advent of the grunge style, specifically its subgroups such as heroin chic and boho chic, with Kate Moss being the most famous representative. This movement brought considerable dissent and rebellion among youth, also contributing to an increase in drug and alcohol use, which led to numerous tragic deaths. As a result, these styles were later excluded from the fashion world. The theoretical part includes an overview of the history and development of the grunge style, with a focus on the influence of the well-known band Nirvana, which later spawned several subgroups. The impact of the grunge aesthetic on high fashion and streetwear over time, from its inception to the present day, is examined in detail. Special attention is also given to the use of reclaimed leather and fur and their history, which was thoroughly explored in the theoretical part. In the experimental section, a unique collection was designed, inspired by the subgroups of heroin chic and boho chic. The main challenge was to create a collection that combined elements of grunge while highlighting the beauty of women from that era with a contemporary twist. This was achieved by incorporating velvet, lace, various bohemian patterns, and natural and sheer materials into very feminine silhouettes. The characteristics of that period were researched and projected onto the garments in the collection. The use of reclaimed leather and fur further supported one of the main messages of the grunge movement—sustainability and laid-back spontaneity. An original collection was created, comprising six silhouettes, four of which were constructed. The collection blends traditional and contemporary elements, creating a harmony between the rawness of grunge and the sophistication of femininity.

• Keywords: grunge, boho chic, heroin chic, Kate Moss, leather, fur, collection, sustainability