Vrednotenje stabilnosti mazil za ustnice z dodatkom macerata navadne dobre misli (Origanum vulgare L.)

Žnidaršič, Sara (author), Baričevič, Dea (mentor), Kočevar Glavač, Nina (co-mentor)

V diplomski nalogi smo vrednotili štiri populacije navadne dobre misli (Origanum vulgare) (9/1, 9/8, M3 in M4). Posajene so bile na Laboratorijskem polju Biotehniške fakultete, Univerze v Ljubljani. V fazi polnega cvetenja so bile naključno izbrane rastline iz vsake populacije požete in posušene v sušilnici. S pomočjo Clevengerjeve aparature smo z vodno destilacijo določili vsebnost eteričnega olja (EO) ter naredili analizo kemijskih spojin s pomočjo plinske kromatografije, sklopljene z masno spektrometrijo (GC-MS). Iz predhodno izdelanih maceratov smo oblikovali mazila, ki smo jih v obdobju dveh mesecev hranili pri različnih temperaturnih režimih (pri sobni temperaturi 25 °C, pri povišani temperaturi - sušilna pečica 40 °C, pri znižani temperaturi - hladilnik 4 °C) in jih senzorično vrednotili (barva, vonj, konsistenca, mazljivost). V obdobju dveh mesecev so bila opravljena tri vrednotenja. Najvišja vsebnost EO je bila določena v populaciji 9/1 (36,53 ml/kg oz. 3,65 %), ostale populacije so imele povprečje med 3,14 do 5,15 ml/kg oz. 0,31 do 0,52 %. Analiza GC-MS je pokazala, da se populacije origana razlikujejo po vsebnosti EO kot tudi kemijski sestavi EO in aromatične vode. Najpogostejše spojine v EO oz. aromatični vodi origana so bile: karvakrol, timol, meta-cimen, terpineol, alfa terpinen, beta mircen, borneol, terpinen-4 -ol, spirojatamol in viridiflorol. V EO je imel v povprečju najvišji odstotek karvakrola vzorec 9/1 (76,45 %) in timola vzorec 9/8 (14,36 %). Pri aromatični vodi so bili rezultati podobni, saj je bila v vzorcu 9/1 najvišja povprečna vsebnost karvakrola 74,31 % in v vzorcu 9/8 vsebnost timola 12,37 %. Skozi obdobje senzoričnega vrednotenja so se vzorci razlikovali po barvi in vonju. Najboljše lastnosti je imel vzorec 9/1 s svetlo rumenozeleno barvo in intenzivnim vonjem. Konsistenca mazil je bila pri sobni temperaturi poltrdna, pri povišani temperaturi tekoča in pri znižani temperaturi trdna. Mazljivost je bila pri sobni temperaturi dobra, pri povišani temperaturi zelo dobra in pri znižani temperaturi zadovoljiva.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: navadna dobra misel, Origanum vulgare, naravna kozmetika, kozmetični pripravek, mazilo za ustnice, eterično olje, macerat, analiza GC - MS, organoleptično vrednotenje
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Typology: 2.11 - Undergraduate Thesis
• Organization: BF - Biotechnical Faculty
• Year: 2023
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-150494
• COBISS.SI-ID: 165118723
• Publication date in RUL: 20.09.2023

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Evaluation of stability of lip ointments with macerate of oregano (Origanum vulgare L.)

Abstract

In graduation thesis, we evaluated four populations of Origanum vulgare (9/1, 9/8, M3 and M4). They were planted in the Laboratory Field of the Biotechnical Faculty of University of Ljubljana. At the full flowering stage, randomly selected plants from each population were harvested and dried in a dryer. With the help of Clevenger apparatus, we determined the content of essential oil (EO) by water distillation and analyzed the chemical compounds by gas chromatography (GC-MS). Ointments were made from previously prepared macerates and kept at different temperature regimes (at room temperature 25 °C, at elevated temperature - drying oven 40 °C, at reduced temperature – refrigerator 4 °C) for a period of two months and evaluated sensory (color, smell, consistency, spreadability). Three evaluations were carried out in a period of two months. The highest EO content was determined in population 9/1 (36.53 ml/kg or 3.65 %), the other populations had an average of 3.14 to 5.15 ml/kg (or 0.31 to 0.52 % of EO). Analysis GC-MS showed that oregano populations differed in EO content as well as in chemical composition of EO and aromatic water. The most common compounds in EO or aromatic waters of oregano were: carvacrol, thymol, meta-cymene, terpineol, alpha terpinene, beta myrcene, borneol, terpinene-4-ol, spirojatamol and viridiflorol. In EO, the highest percentage of carvacrol was detected in sample 9/1 (76.45 %) and that of thymol in sample 9/8 (14.36 %) on average. In the case of aromatic water, the results were similar, since sample 9/1 contained the highest average carvacrol content of 74.31 % and in sample 9/8 the thymol content was 12.37 %. Throughout the period of sensory evaluation, the samples differed in color and aroma. Sample 9/1 with a bright yellowgreen color and an intense smell had the best properties. The consistency of the ointments was semi-solid at room temperature, liquid at elevated temperature and solid at reduced temperature. Lubricity was good at room temperature, very good at elevated temperature and satisfactory at reduced temperature.

• Keywords: oregano, Origanum vulgare, natural cosmetic, cosmetic preparation, lip balm, essential oil, macerate, analysis GC - MS, organoleptic evaluation