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Uniseks kolekcija oblačil OZERO z izhodiščem v plesnih kulturah
ID Dapčevič, Neža (Author), ID Zorec, Petja (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window, ID Kočevar, Tanja Nuša (Co-mentor)

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Abstract
Diplomsko delo z naslovom »Uniseks kolekcija OZERO z izhodiščem v plesni kulturi« raziskuje možnosti oblikovanja sodobne oblačilne kolekcije. Avtorica je raziskovala vpliv baleta in subkulture hip hopa na oblikovanje oblačil. Kot plesalka obeh zvrsti je ob strokovnih dognanjih izhajala iz svoje 18-letne plesne kariere. V diplomskem delu je prikazala proces oblikovanja s principi trajnosti in tehniko nadcikliranja uniseks ready-to-wear kolekcije. Raziskovala je trajnost materialov in njihovo funkcijo v gibu. V silhuetah kolekcije je iskala kontraste med ozkimi in širokimi oblikami in razmišljala o gibanju ter odnosu do telesa. Z izhodiščem baletne predstave Labodje jezero je svoje končne osebnosti, avatarje, postavila na ledeni zimski planet. Fotografiranje kolekcije je potekalo na Islandiji, deželi ognja in ledu. V teoretičnem delu je opisana zgodovina baleta in odnos baletnikov do svojega telesa ter primeri estetik baleta, ki se pojavljajo v sodobni modi (t. i. »baletcore« trend.) Med drugim je avtorica raziskovala tudi študijo gibanja Plesne krivulje, slikarja Vasilija Kandinskega, ki jo je v praktičnem delu uporabila pri upodabljanju silhuet v kolekciji. V kontekstu baletne plesne kulture je raziskovala zgodovino in trajnost jeansa v povezavi s hip hop zvezdniki, v obdobju med letoma 1990 in 2000 (Missy Elliot). V zaključku teoretičnega dela je preučevala še pomen trajnosti v sodobni modi, s poudarkom na oblikovanju že uporabljenih materialov. Kot primer trajnostnega principa oblikovanja je v praktičnem delu ob teoretičnih podlagah 3D-oblikovanja modnih dodatkov ustvarila očala, s čimer je zaobjela končen videz kolekcije OZERO. V praktičnem delu je oblikovala trajnostno kolekcijo po principih nadcikliranja, za katero je uporabila rabljene jeans izdelke v različnih barvnih odtenkih ter dotrajane baletne copate ljubljanske opere. Mnogo baletnih copat (pointe-shoes) se namreč vsakodnevno zavrže, saj jih balerine po treh nastopih zaradi dotrajanosti ne morejo več uporabiti. Pri oblikovanju kolekcije je bila pozorna na funkcionalnost in uporabnost oblačil. V stajling je vključena tudi avtorska obutev nadciklirana iz jeansa in baletnih copat ter kolekcija očal, ki je bila oblikovana in izdelana s pomočjo programske opreme za 3D-oblikovanje in strojne opreme za 3D-tisk. Eksperimentalni del je vključeval tudi razvoj avtorskih vzorcev, ki so bili ustvarjeni z digitalnim tiskom. Cilj diplomske naloge je bila izvedba avtorske trajnostne uniseks kolekcije oblačil, ki je vključevala osem končnih silhuet. Kolekcija je bila zasnovana s kontrastoma subtilnosti baleta in surovosti ulične mode. Dodaten cilj je bil ozaveščanje o pomenu trajnosti in možnosti izvedbe produkta z dodano vrednostjo iz starih izdelkov. Za namen raziskave je avtorica ustvarila trajnostno kolekcijo, nadciklirano iz odpadnih baletnih čevljev ter starih jeans izdelkov in zaobjela kontrast znotraj dveh plesnih kultur. Avtorico je predvsem zanimal odziv in vpliv takšnega načina oblikovanja na današnjo in prihodnjo družbo ter tekstilno industrijo.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:uniseks, balet, hip hop, nadcikliranje, trajnost, 3D
Work type:Bachelor thesis/paper
Organization:NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
Year:2023
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-149055 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:02.09.2023
Views:290
Downloads:60
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:Unisex collection OZERO with a starting point in dance cultures
Abstract:
The thesis titled "Unisex Collection OZERÒ Based on Dance Culture" explores the possibilities of designing a contemporary clothing collection. The author investigated the influence of ballet and hip-hop subculture on clothing design. Drawing from her 18-year dance career, which encompasses both genres, the author showcased the design process using sustainability principles and upcycling techniques for a unisex ready-to-wear collection. She delved into the sustainability of materials and their functionality in movement. Within the collection's silhouettes, she sought contrasts between narrow and wide shapes, contemplating movement and the relationship to the body. Drawing inspiration from the ballet performance "Swan Lake," she placed her final personas, avatars, on an icy winter planet. The collection photoshoot took place in Iceland, a land of fire and ice. In the theoretical part, the history of ballet is described, including the dancers' relationship with their bodies, along with examples of ballet aesthetics appearing in contemporary fashion (the so-called "balletcore" trend). Among other things, the author also explored the study of movement called "Dance Curves," as depicted by the painter Wassily Kandinsky, which she utilized in the practical part for rendering the silhouettes in the collection. Within the context of ballet culture, the author delved into the history and sustainability of denim in connection with hip-hop icons during the period between 1990 and 2000 (Missy Elliott). In the conclusion of the theoretical part, she examined the significance of sustainability in contemporary fashion, emphasizing the design of recycled materials. As an example of a sustainable design principle, she created eyewear in the practical section, aligning with the theoretical foundation of 3D fashion accessory design, thereby encapsulating the final appearance of the OZERÒ collection. In the practical segment, the author designed a sustainable collection based on upcycling principles, utilizing used jeans in various shades and worn-out ballet slippers from the Ljubljana Opera. Many pointe shoes are discarded daily, as ballerinas can no longer use them after three performances due to wear. Throughout the design process, she emphasized the functionality and usability of the garments. The styling also included her own footwear upcycled from jeans and ballet slippers, along with a collection of eyewear designed and produced using 3D design software and 3D printing equipment. The experimental part encompassed the development of original patterns realized through digital printing. The objective of the thesis was to create an original sustainable unisex clothing collection consisting of 8 final silhouettes. The collection was conceived with contrasts between the subtlety of ballet and the rawness of streetwear. An additional aim was to raise awareness about the importance of sustainability and the potential for creating value-added products from existing items. For the purpose of the research, the author crafted a sustainable collection upcycled from discarded ballet slippers and old jeans products, capturing the contrast within the two dance cultures. The author was particularly interested in the response and impact of such design approaches on present and future society and the textile industry.

Keywords:unisex, ballet, hip hop, upcycling, sustainability, 3D

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