Ideja reizma v trajnostni kolekciji oblačil

Podgoršek, Jaka (author), Zorec, Petja (mentor)

V diplomskem delu z naslovom Ideja reizma v trajnostni kolekciji oblačil opisujem nastajanje in izvedbo avtorske kolekcije, ki izhaja iz koncepta reizma. Ta se v oblačilih izraža skozi vizualno predstavo dinamike avre oblačil, kot neponovljivih nosilcev zgodb naših življenj. V teoretičnem delu sem se najprej poglobil v zgodovino potrošništva in razvoj človeka v potrošnika. Nadaljeval sem z raziskavo industrije hitre in ultra hitre mode, ki je v obdobju med in po pandemiji Covida-19 zaznamovala enega največjih napredkov na področju masovne proizvodnje izdelkov ter tako pospešila cikel hitro menjajočih se modnih trendov, prekomerne potrošnje in s tem razvrednotenja vseh tekstilnih izdelkov. Kot nasprotje prekomerne porabe oblačil sem raziskoval slovensko umetniško gibanje OHO, ki je v začetku svojega delovanja z idejo reizma in poskusov celostne umetnosti kritizirala človekovo superiornost v svetu. Idejo reističnega pogleda na svet sem nato nadaljeval z raziskavo koncepta avre Walterja Benjamina, ki je poudarjal edinstvenost originalnih umetniških del in neponovljivost specifičnega elementa teh del, njihove kvintesence, ki je izražena skozi njihovo avro. Poleg tega so bili Benjaminovi opisi čutenja avre v naravi in njenega odnosa s človekom izhodišče za vizualno inspiracijo, ki sem jo našel v fotografskih krajinah Franca Fontane in kiparskih delih Jeana Hansa Arpa. V praktičnem delu sem predstavil razvoj kolekcije oblačil z uporabo trajnostne tehnike nadcikliranja rabljenih oblačil, kvačkanja, uporabo zadnjih kvačkanih izdelkov moje prababice ter najdenih tekstilnih materialov in pozamenterije starih slovenskih tekstilnih tovarn. Začel sem z eksperimentiranjem v materialu s katerim sem ustvaril tridimenzionalne tekstilne forme, ki sem jih nato prenesel v različne oblačilne kose. Izhodišče za barvno paleto sem našel v Fontanovih krajinah, ki sem jih povezal z najdenimi materiali in rabljenimi oblačili. Prikazan je razvoj sedmih realiziranih silhuet od izhodišča v kolažih, skicah in prototipih do tehnične skice. Na koncu je kolekcija predstavljena v modnem editorialu, ki je izraz avre nastalih oblačil v odnosu do telesa in okolja, ki jih obdaja. Končni rezultat diplomskega dela je trajnostna kolekcija katere namen je spodbuditi k ponovni vzpostavitvi spoštljivega odnosa človeka do oblačil. Skozi trajnostne principe in uporabo starih materialov izraža zgodbo oblačilnih kosov, v barvah in oblikah pa predstavi oblačilo kot prvi, najbolj intimni prostor v katerem se gibljemo skozi čas in prostor večino svojega življenja.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: reizem, avra, trajnostno oblikovanje, odnos do oblačil, ročno delo, kvačkanje
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
• Year: 2023
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-146808
• Publication date in RUL: 14.06.2023

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: The Idea of Reism in a Sustainable Fashion Collection

Abstract

In the thesis titled The Idea of Reism in a Sustainable Clothing Collection, I describe the development and execution of a collection that emerges from the concept of reism and finds expression in garments through a visual representation of the dynamics of their aura, where these garments are viewed as carriers of the stories of our lives. In the theoretical part, I first delved into the history of consumerism and the transformation of humans into consumers. I continued with a study of the fast and ultra-fast fashion industry, which has witnessed significant advancements in mass production during and after the COVID-19 pandemic. This has accelerated the cycle of rapidly changing fashion trends, consumption patterns, and the devaluation of textile products. As a counterpoint to the excessive clothing consumption, I explored Slovenian art movement OHO, which, in its early stages, criticized human superiority in the world through the idea of reism and attempts at holistic art. I then expanded the idea of reistic worldview by researching Walter Benjamin's concept of aura, which emphasized the uniqueness of original artworks and the irreplaceability of a specific element of these works, their quintessence, which is expressed in their aura. Furthermore, Benjamin's descriptions of sensing the aura in nature and its relation to humans served as the basis for visual inspiration, which I found in the photographic landscapes of Franco Fontana and the sculptures of Jean Hans Arp. In the practical part of the thesis, I presented the development of the collection using techniques of upcycling old garments, crocheting, use of my great-grandmother’s last crochet works and found textile materials of old Slovenian factories. Starting with textile experiments I created threedimensional shapes which I then incorporated into several different silhouettes. The colour palette for the collection comes from Fontana’s landscapes and connects with the found textile materials. The development of seven silhouettes is depicted through collages, sketches, prototypes and technical drawings. Finally, the collection is presented in the fashion editorial expressing the aura of the garments and their relation to the body and nature surrounding it. The final result is a sustainable collection intended to encourage the reestablishment of a respectful relationship between humans and clothing. Through sustainable principles and the use of vintage materials, it expresses the story of each clothing item. Through colours and shapes, it presents clothing as the primary and most intimate space in which we move through time and space for the majority of our lives.

• Keywords: reism, aura, sustainable design, attitude towards clothing, craftsmanship, crochet