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Pregled trga kozmetičnih izdelkov s salicilno kislino za čiščenje in nego aknaste kože obraza
ID Grobiša, Nika (Author), ID Ahlin Grabnar, Pegi (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window

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Abstract
Koža je naš največji organ in samo v zdravem stanju lahko nemoteno opravlja svoje funkcije. Večino ljudi vsaj enkrat v življenju prizadenejo acne vulgaris, ena izmed vrst aken. Gre za polimorfno vnetno kožno bolezen s kompleksnim mehanizmom nastanka, ki prizadene pilosebacealno enoto. Pri obvladovanju in izboljševanju stanja si lahko pomagamo tudi s kozmetičnimi izdelki (KI) za akne, med katerimi je pogosto uporabljena aktivna sestavina salicilna kislina, ki pospešuje deskvamacijo, zaradi svoje lipofilne narave pa lahko prodre v žleze lojnice na mesto učinkovanja. Ker je pri formuliranju s salicilno kislino potrebno upoštevati določene omejitve, so za izboljšanje nekaterih njenih lastnosti razvili derivate in dostavne sisteme, ki lahko olajšajo izdelavo KI. V lekarnah, specializiranih trgovinah in na spletu smo poiskali 80 kozmetičnih izdelkov, namenjenih negi in čiščenju aknaste kože obraza, ki vsebujejo salicilno kislino ali njene derivate, in proučili njihovo sestavo. Izbrali smo izdelke za čiščenje obraza, tonike, serume, kreme in losjone, pilinge, maske in druge kozmetične izdelke. Pri tem smo se osredotočili na njihovo sestavo, to je na prisotnost površinsko aktivnih snovi (PAS), sotopil, humektantov, emolientov, eksfoliacijskih sredstev, drugih kozmetično aktivnih sestavin (KAS), zgoščeval in konzervansov. Pregledani izdelki največkrat vsebujejo neionske PAS, kot sotopila so dodani različni glikoli in alkoholi, najpogosteje prisoten humektant pa je glicerol, ki služi tudi kot sotopilo za salicilno kislino. Med emolienti so najpogostejši estri alkoholov in maščobnih kislin, silikoni in maščobni alkoholi. Izbranim KI so kot sredstva z eksfoliativnim delovanjem največkrat dodane kisline AHA in PHA. Proučevani KI pogosto vsebujejo tudi številne druge KAS, ki imajo pomirjujoče, protivnetno, vlažilno in posvetlitveno delovanje, pomagajo pa tudi pri uravnavanju količine sebuma in bakterij ter pri krepitvi kožne bariere. Med zgoščevali so prisotni zlasti ksantan in sintetično pridobljeni polimeri, za zgoščevanje v kombinaciji s PAS pa je uporabljen natrijev klorid. Največkrat uporabljen konzervans je fenoksietanol, nekateri KI pa so formulirani tako, da konzervansov ne potrebujejo. Za 43 izdelkov smo našli podatek o koncentraciji salicilne kisline in njenih derivatov v KI. Glede na ceno smo izbrane KI tudi razvrstili v 4 kategorije in ugotovili, da so izdelki cenovno dostopni večini potrošnikov.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:salicilna kislina, kapriloilsalicilna kislina, akne, kozmetični izdelki, koža obraza
Work type:Bachelor thesis/paper
Organization:FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
Year:2022
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-135597 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:22.03.2022
Views:973
Downloads:158
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:Market overview of salicylic acid-based cosmetic products for the cleansing and care of acne-prone facial skin
Abstract:
The skin is the largest body organ which can perform its functions regularly only when in a healthy state. Majority of people are affected by Acne vulgaris, one of the types of acne, at least once in their life. Acne vulgaris is polymorphic inflammatory skin disease with a complex mechanism of occurrence affecting the pilosebaceal unit. Cosmetic products for acne-prone skin, which often contain salicylic acid as active ingredient, can help to control and improve condition. Salicylic acid accelerates desquamation, and it can penetrate the sebaceous gland due to its lipophylic nature. Because certain limitations need to be considered when formulating with salicylic acid, derivatives and delivery systems have been developed to improve its properties, which can facilitate the production of cosmetic products. The composition of 80 cosmetic products for the cleansing and care of acne-prone facial skin containing salicylic acid or its derivates, found in pharmacies, specalized cosmetics stores and online, has been studied in detail. The examined product groups contained face clensers, toners, serums, creams and lotions, peelings, masks and other non categorised cosmetic products. A special attention has been paid to their surfactants, co-solvents, humectants, emolients, exfoliating agents, other cosmetically active ingredients, thichening agents and preservatives. Products subject to study prevalently contained non-ionic surfactants, different glycols and alcohols as co-solvents, whereas glycerol has been found to be the most common humectant, also acting as co-solvent for salicylic acid. Alcohols and fatty acids esters, silicones and fatty alcoholes are the most common among the emolients, while AHA and PHA acids among exfoliating agents. Many other cosmetically active ingredients are often present in the sample groups, providing soothing, anti-inflammatory, moisturising and skin-brightening effect, as well as helping to strenghten skin barrier and regulate the amount of sebum and bacteria. Xanthan and some synthetically derived polymers dominate in thickenig agents group, likewise sodium chloride thickens in combination with surfactants. Phenoxyethanol is generally present preservative in the sample groups, although some cosmetics products are formulated without preservatives. Concentration of salicylic acid and its derivates has been discovered for 43 products. Products selected for this study have been further categorised in 4 groups according to their price range, resulting in awareness of general affordability in most of the products.

Keywords:salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, acne, cosmetics products, facial skin

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