Trajnostna ženska kolekcija Roza

Simčič, Neža (author), Zorec, Petja (mentor)

V diplomskem delu z naslovom Trajnostna ženska kolekcija Roza opisujem nastajanje in izvedbo avtorske kolekcije, ki se inspirira v izkušnjah življenja na obmejnem območju Gorice in Nove Gorice. Poleg obmejnega zˇivljenja so glavno izhodišče kreiranja kontrasti med skromnimi, preprostimi vrednotami slovenskih zˇensk in prefinjenostjo uglajenih italjanskih starejsˇih dam, kot tudi razlike v estetiki teh dveh mest. V teoretičnem delu sem se poglobila v zgodovino omenjenega območja ter mešanja kultur narodov. Najprej sem raziskala zgodovino oblačenja in oblačilno identiteto italijanskega naroda, pri čemer sem se osredotočila na enega izmed najprepoznavnejših kosov italijanske mode, krzneni plašč. Sledili sta raziskava zgodovine slovenske tekstilne industrije in preizpraševanje o modni identiteti Slovenk. Kot značilni element slovenske oblačilne kulture sem izpostavila ročne tehnike, njihovo pomembnost skozi čas ter zakaj se jih danes ponovno obuja in aktualizira. Na koncu teoretičnega dela sem opisala položaj starejših žensk v modni industriji, saj jih le ta mnogokrat ignorira. V praktičnem delu sem predstavila razvoj kolekcije in trajnostne principe oblikovanja, ki sem se jih pri tem poslužila. Začela sem z oblikovanjem tekstilnih eksperimentov, ki povezujejo estetiko dveh mest. Te so mi služile kot osnova pri tvorbi silhuet, ki odražajo združevanje oblačilnih identitet slovenskih in italijanskih žensk. Kolekcija realiziranih petih silhuet je prikazana skozi modne in tehnične skice, barvno paleto ter izbor materialov. Slednji je temeljil na starih zalogah in ostankih propadlih proizvodenj. Predstavljen je tudi razvoj in uporaba različnih trajnostnih principov, kot so kvačkanje iz odpadnih najlonk, povezovanje različnih polizdelkov ter uporaba odpadne preje za razvoj krznenih kvačkanin. Končni rezultat je trajnostna avtorska kolekcija, namenjena zrelim ženskam, ki se kljub svojim letom še vedno želijo izražati z modnimi oblačili. Namen, sporočilo in vzdušje kolekcije je dokumentirano skozi serijo fotografij-modni editorial.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: trajnostno oblikovanje, tekstilne ročne tehnike, krzno, starejše ženske, Gorica, Nova Gorica
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
• Year: 2022
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-135476
• Publication date in RUL: 16.03.2022

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Sustainable womenswear collection Roza

Abstract

In my graduate collection, titled Sustainable womenswear collection Roza, I describe development and execution of this collection, which takes inspiration from experiences of living on the border between Gorizia and Nova Gorica. Alongside life by the border, the main source of inspiration are contrasts between humble, simple values of Slovene women and sophistication of glamourous Italian older ladies, as well as the differences of the two cities' aesthetics. Throughout theoretical part of my thesis, I delved into the history of this region and mixing of the two nations' cultures. Firstly, I analysed the history of clothing and dress identity of the Italian nation, where I focused on one of the most recognizable pieces of Italian fashion, the fur coat. This was followed by researching the history of Slovenian textile industry and questioning about fashion identity of Slovenian women. As one of the focal elements of Slovenian dress culture, I put into the spotlight handcraft techniques, their importance throughout time and why they are being reborn and modernised nowadays. In conclusion of theoretical thesis, I described the position older women hold in the fashion industry, due to lack of their representation. In the practical part of my thesis, I have presented sustainable approaches to design and execution of the collection. I started with designing textile experiments, which combine the aesthetics of the two cities. These served me as a base to form fashion silhouettes, reflecting the merge of Slovenian and Italian dress identities. The collection of five silhouettes is presented through collages and technical sketches, selection of materials, which was based on deadstock and leftovers from bankrupted textile companies, and colour palette reflecting the architecture of mentioned cities. Also depicted is development and use of different sustainable principles, as the progress of creating yarn and crochet items from stockings, the connection of different intermediate products and the use of deadstock yarn in a new manner. At the end, the collection is represented through editorial. The finished product is a capsule collection, targeted towards older women, who despite their age still feel the desire to express themselves with clothing. The purpose, message and atmosphere of the collection is documented through the series of fashion photographs.

• Keywords: sustainable design, handcraft techniques, fur, older women, Gorizia, Nova Gorica