Trajnostna biorazgradljiva oblačila za modno znamko Vivre

Jerič, Petra (author), Fajt, Elena (mentor), Novak, Uroš (co-mentor)

Magistrsko delo se ukvarja s problematiko družbeno odgovornega oblikovanja v modi s poudarkom na ekološki in etični perspektivi ter perspektivi uporabnika. V zadnjih letih se je zaradi situacije v modi vloga oblikovalca močno spremenila, saj ta ni več izključno oblikovalec, ampak je postal posrednik, spodbujevalec, aktivist, podjetnik in še mnogo več. Čeprav ljudje postajajo vse bolj ozaveščeni glede dogajanja v modni in tekstilni industriji, je le malo takih, ki to znanje aktivno uporabljajo tudi v praksi. Cilj magistrskega dela je zasnovati blagovno znamko Vivre, ki jo odlikujejo 100-% biorazgradljiva oblačila, ki sestojijo iz naravnega veganskega biomateriala, ki sem ga razvila v sklopu naloge. Material bazira na osnovi naravnih polisaharidov in je del krožnega gospodarstva, saj imajo materiali reciklažne in biorazgradljive lastnosti. Material po videzu in strukturi še najbolj spominja na usnje. Tudi vsi uporabljeni oblačilni elementi (gumbi, zaponke) ter tudi vse obdelave na proizvodih blagovne znamke Vivre so izključno naravnega izvora in so biorazgradljive. V delu sem zasnovala multifunkcionalno kolekcijo oblačil in modnih dodatkov, ki inspiracijo iščejo v provokativnih kolažih angleškega družbenokritičnega umetnika Joeja Webba. Navdih za funkcionalne detajle in silhuete pa kolekcija jemlje iz vojaških uniform. Kolekcija je kot navdih ali ena od smernic za trajnostno oblikovanje, hkrati pa je kritika sodobnega spopadanja z modno krizo in odpira nova področja razmisleka za oblikovalca. Loteva se tudi čutnega oblikovanja z namenom obuditve zapostavljenih čutnih zaznav. Današnji svet je zaradi digitalizacije namreč pretežno vizualen, drugi čuti pa so prepogosto zapostavljeni. V kolekcijo dodajam še taktilne in inhalatorne zaznave, s čimer želim poudariti velik potencial oblačil tudi na ravni mentalnega zdravja in psihološkega dobrega počutja. Z izključno okulocentrično percepcijo oblačil jim namreč jemljemo veliko moč. Materialu je dodan vonj eteričnih olj, saj ta dokazano pozitivno vpliva na naše razpoloženje ter našo fizično in kognitivno predstavo. Hkrati želim z zasnovanjem koncepta »oblačilo kot objem ali prijeten dotik« izboljšati tudi uporabnikovo psihofizično počutje.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: biomaterial, biorazgradljivost, trajnost, družbeno odgovorno oblikovanje, čutila
• Work type: Master's thesis/paper
• Organization: NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
• Year: 2022
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-135120
• Publication date in RUL: 23.02.2022

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Sustainable biodegradable garments for fashion brand Vivre

Abstract

This master's thesis discusses the issue of socially responsible design in the fashion industry with an emphasis on the ecological and ethical perspective as well as the user's perspective. Over the last few years, the role of the designer has changed greatly due to the situation in the fashion industry, as they are no longer just a designer, but have become a mediator, promoter, activist, entrepreneur and much more. Even though people are becoming increasingly aware of what is going on in the fashion and textile industry, only a few of them actively apply this knowledge in practice. The purpose of this master's thesis is to design Vivre, a clothing brand characterized by 100% biodegradable fabric, which is made from a natural vegan biomaterial developed by me as part of the thesis. The material is based on natural polysaccharides and is part of the circular economy because it has recyclable and biodegradable properties. The appearance and the structure of the material are most reminiscent of leather. All the included parts of clothing (buttons, buckles) as well as all the products after processing of the Vivre brand are solely of natural origin and are biodegradable. This thesis presents my multifunctional fashion collection of garments and accessories that find inspiration in the thought-provoking collages by Joe Webb, a socio-critical British artist. The collection owes its inspiration for functional details and silhouettes to military uniforms. The collection is a source of inspiration or one of the guidelines for sustainable design, while it also critiques the current conflict with the crisis in the fashion industry and reveals new areas of reflection for the designer. It also includes sensory design in order to revitalize the neglected sensory perceptions. Today's world relies primarily on visual perception due to digitalisation, while the other senses are often neglected. The perception of touch and smell is also added to the collection to emphasize clothing’s big potential on the level of mental health and psychological well-being. An exclusively oculocentric perception of clothing takes away a lot of its power. Essential oils are added to the material because it has been proven that their scent has a positive effect on our mood and our physical and cognitive performance. At the same time, I also want to improve the user's psychophysical well-being with the concept of clothing as a hug or a pleasant touch.

• Keywords: biomaterial, biodegradability, sustainability, socially responsible design, senses