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Primerjalna analiza kozmetičnih izdelkov proti celulitu različnih cenovnih razredov glede na njihove kozmetično aktivne sestavine in navedene učinke
ID Marinič, Laura (Author), ID Zvonar Pobirk, Alenka (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window

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Abstract
Dandanes besedo celulit uporabljamo kot pogovorni nemedicinski izraz, ki opisuje neenakomeren videz površine kože na prizadetih področjih, ki spominja na pomarančno lupino. Je rezultat kompleksnih procesov v usnjici in podkožju. Prizadene večino žensk v obdobju po puberteti. V diplomski nalogi smo se posvetili proučevanju kozmetičnih izdelkov proti celulitu, s poudarkom na primerjavi izdelkov nižjega do srednjega in višjega cenovnega razreda. Njihovo učinkovitost smo poskušali oceniti na osnovi vsebovanih kozmetično aktivnih sestavin, navedb o učinkovitosti in podatkov o izvedenih študijah, ki te trditve podpirajo z ustreznimi dokazi. V primerjavi s kozmetičnimi izdelki višjega cenovnega razreda smo v izbranih izdelkih nižjega do srednjega cenovnega razreda določili večji povprečni delež kozmetično aktivnih sestavin (navedeni v prvi četrtini, prvi tretjini ali prvi polovici seznama sestavin) glede na celokupno število sestavin. Iz tega podatka sicer ne moremo sklepati o točni masni vsebnosti kozmetično aktivnih sestavin v izbranih izdelkih. Ker se kozmetično aktivne sestavine razlikujejo v svoji učinkovitosti, je pomembno tudi, katere vrste se nahajajo v proučenih izdelkih. V primerjavi s kozmetičnimi izdelki nižjega cenovnega razreda smo v izdelkih višjega cenovnega razreda zasledili več lipolitičnih kozmetično aktivnih sestavin, sicer pa se je izkazalo, da cenovni razred ne vpliva bistveno na izbiro kozmetično aktivnih sestavin, saj jih je bila večina prisotna v izdelkih obeh cenovnih razredov. Najbolj pogosti kozmetično aktivni sestavini v izbranih izdelkih sta kofein in izvlečki morskih alg. Med preverjanjem navedb proizvajalcev o učinkovitosti kozmetičnih izdelkov smo zasledili predvsem navedbe, ki se nanašajo na delovanje kozmetičnih izdelkov in vsebovane sestavine, kar je v skladu s pričakovanji. Med izdelki nižjega ali srednjega cenovnega razreda prevladujejo navedbe o sposobnosti izdelka, da učvrsti ali zgladi površino kože, med kozmetičnimi izdelki višjega cenovnega razreda pa navedbe, ki neposredno opisujejo zmožnost izdelka, da izboljša stanje vidnega celulita. Slednje skupaj z navedbami, ki se nanašajo na zmanjšanje obsega telesa ali preoblikovanje postave, tudi najbolj izstopajo in so bolj pogoste pri oglaševanju pregledanih izdelkov višjega cenovnega razreda. Dostopni podatki o izvedbi testiranj učinkovitosti so bili ne glede na cenovni razred kozmetičnih izdelkov pomanjkljivi. Primerjali smo število sodelujočih, čas trajanja testiranja, na osnovi rezultatov pa smo lahko sklepali tudi o vrsti študije. Potrebno je poudariti, da so za ocenjevanje učinkovitosti izdelkov nižjega ali srednjega cenovnega razreda največkrat uporabili klinično testiranje s samoevalvacijo sodelujočih, medtem ko so klinične instrumentalne študije večkrat uporabili za vrednotenje kozmetičnih izdelkov višjega cenovnega razreda. Večja zastopanost lipolitičnih kozmetično aktivnih sestavin, neposredne navedbe o izboljšanju s celulitom povezanih vidnih sprememb na koži in bolj objektivne metode vrednotenja učinkovitosti kozmetičnih izdelkov govorijo v prid izdelkom višjega cenovnega razreda. Vendar pa boljše učinkovitosti slednjih ne moremo zagotovo potrditi le na osnovi pregleda dostopnih podatkov, ki so pogosto pomanjkljivi.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:celulit, kozmetično aktivne sestavine, navedbe proizvajalca, učinkovitost, cenovni razred
Work type:Bachelor thesis/paper
Organization:FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
Year:2021
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-130081 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:10.09.2021
Views:1607
Downloads:103
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:Comparative analysis of anti-cellulite cosmetic products from different price ranges based on their cosmetically active ingredients and efficacy claims
Abstract:
Nowadays, the word cellulite is used as a colloquial non-medical term to describe the uneven appearance of the skin surface in the affected areas, reminiscent of an orange peel. It is the result of various complex processes in the dermis and subcutaneous tissue. It affects most women in the post-pubertal period. In this diploma thesis we focused on the study of anti-cellulite cosmetic products, with an emphasis on the comparison of the products of lower to middle and higher price range. We aimed to evaluate their efficacy based on incorporated cosmetically active ingredients, efficacy claims and available data on various studies, performed to support these claims with relevant evidence. Compared to cosmetics of a higher price range, we determined a higher average share of cosmetically active ingredients in the relation to the total number of ingredients in selected cosmetic products of lower to middle price range (listed in the first quarter, first third or first half of the list of ingredients). From this data alone we cannot make any conclusion on the exact mass content of cosmetically active ingredients in selected products. As cosmetically active ingredients differ in their efficacy, the type of included cosmetically active ingredients is also of high importance. Compared to cosmetic products of lower price range, we found more lipolytic cosmetically active ingredients in the products of higher price range. Excluding aforementioned exception, the price range of cosmetic products did not significantly affect the choice of cosmetically active ingredients, as most of them were present in all products. The most common cosmetically active ingredients of selected products are caffeine and seaweed extracts. Based on the review of the manufacturer's claims on the effectiveness of cosmetic products, mainly performance claims and ingredient-related claims were found, which is in line with our expectations. Claims about the ability of the product to firm or smooth the skin surface are the most common in products of the lower or middle price range. On the other side, claims that directly describe the ability of the cosmetic product to improve the visible signs of cellulite dominate among more expensive cosmetics. Together with claims relating to the reduction of circumference of certain body parts or the reshaping of the silhouette, they stand out the most and are more common int the advertising of the reviewed products of higher price range. Available information on the performed efficacy test of the cosmetic products were deficient, regardless of the price range of the cosmetic product. We thus compared the number of participants and the duration of testing in addition to the types of performed study, as identified based on the given results. It should be noted that clinical testing with self-evaluation of participants was most often used to assess the efficacy of lower or middle price range cosmetics, while clinical instrumental studies were mostly used to evaluate higher price range cosmetic products. Greater representation of lipolytic cosmetically active ingredients, direct claims of improvement in cellulite-related visual changes on the skin, and more objective methods used for evaluating the efficacy of the cosmetic products speak in favour of products of a higher price range. However, the better performance of the latter cannot be confirmed with certainty solely based on a review of available data, which is often deficient.

Keywords:cellulite, cosmetically active ingredients, claims, efficacy, price range

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