Sensory analysis is a tool for evaluating cosmetic products throughout the development path of a cosmetic product, starting from the conceptualization model to marketing and sales. Together with instrumental tests, it provides additional value and a complete profile of the cosmetic product. Unlike instrumental tests, sensory analysis is carried out by a person with its basic senses, namely sight, smell, touch, taste and hearing. Within sensory analysis, we distinguish between analytical and hedonic methods. Analytical methods have an objective approach involving qualified staff, while hedonic methods have more subjective approach involving unskilled volunteers. Within each method, there are several tests. Within analytical methods, we distinguish between discrimination (triangle test, duo-trio test, pairwise test and ranking test) and descriptive (classical quantitative descriptive analysis, flash profile method, pivot profile method and check-all-that-apply method) testing. Within hedonic methods, we distinguish between affective and effective testing. The choice of test depends on the goal we want to achieve.
Within the diploma thesis, we studied the approach to setting up a sensory profile through a survey among nine Slovenian and foreign cosmetic companies. These are cosmetic companies and companies that are not cosmetic but are engaged in sensory analysis of cosmetic products. We were interested in how the companies are involved in sensory analysis, which products they value and which tests are used. We also obtained data on the characteristics, education and training of assessors and the places where sensory analysis is performed. We also got acquainted with the steps of sensory analysis and evaluation of its results. We found that each company performs a sensory evaluation of cosmetic products to a certain extent, most often for hair cosmetics. Hedonic approach or consumer tests are most often used. An interesting answer was provided by Slovenian companies Kozmetika Afrodita d. o. o. and Hemptouch d. o. o. In Afrodita sensory-related questions are only part of the testing of a semi-finished product in selected test groups. Qualified assessors are never involved, only volunteers. Hemptouch does not pay much attention to a favourable sensory experience, as the purpose of their products is to solve skin problems. Nevertheless, they have already encountered ingredient replacement due to an unfavourable sensory experience. We conclude that sensory analysis is an inevitable and important part of the evaluation of cosmetic products themselves.
In the second part of the diploma thesis, based on the information obtained in the survey and data from the professional literature, we set up a questionnaire and performed a sensory analysis, where we were mainly interested in the correlation between perceived properties and claims for individual cosmetic products. We performed hedonic or consumer test, a combination of affective and effective test. We compared two Afrodita’s face creams, “Aqua MIX light nourishing cream” and “Botanical MIX hydrating gel cream”. Creams differ in certain ingredients, thus explaining the differences in sensory properties. Most opted for “Botanical MIX hydrating gel cream” over “Aqua MIX light nourishing cream”. According to the information from manufacturers “Botanical MIX hydrating cream” indeed achieves a higher share of sales. As part of the testing, we also confirmed most of the claims, with which manufacturers advertise both cosmetic products.
Through survey research, we gained a lot of information and insight into the key role of sensory analysis in both the development and marketing of cosmetic products.
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