The trend in the development of cosmetic products (CP) is active care. Selected cosmetically active ingredients (CAI) actively interfere with the functioning of the skin and stimulate in it cells and mechanisms responsible for keeping the skin smooth, tight and supple for as long as possible. While other CAIs that are used in the market experience their ups and downs, vitamins are still a constant in the development of CPs. Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B that is used in all technological forms, from skin care creams to serums.
In the diploma thesis, we researched the composition and function of 48 CPs with niacinamide. We were interested in the technological forms in which niacinamide occurs, its concentration and purpose of use of selected CPs, intended site of application, mechanisms of action in individual skin abnormalities, and other CAIs and their role in CPs with niacinamide. We also checked the price and advertising of other selected CPs.
CPs with niacinamide occurred in several technological forms, where serums (42 %) and hydrophilic creams (38 %) for face, neck and decolletage care stood out. Niacinamide is the CAI in serums, which most often inhibits the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and effectively smooths wrinkles. No data on niacinamide concentration were found in most products (83 %). For the care of acne-prone, hyperpigmented or mature skin, a concentration of 5 % niacinamide is sufficient. Niacinamide most often appeared in »anti-age« CPs (29 %), where as part of the coenzymes NAD and NADP it helps to reduce oxidative stress in the skin. 10 products (21 %) with niacinamide were intended for care of acne-prone skin, where the ability of niacinamide to regulate sebum production helps to prevent acne outbreaks, especially for people with oily skin. We also studied the combination of niacinamide and zinc salts (17 %). The function of zinc salts in combination with niacinamide is to help normalize and limit the spread of acne-causing bacteria. We also examined which other CAIs appear in addition to niacinamide in selected CPs and found that sodium hyaluronate (29 %) and other B-complex vitamins (31 %), most commonly panthenol, occur very frequently. Among all, the most represented are moisturizers and antioxidants (AO), which play an important role in the care of dry skin and skin prone to aging. Selected products were similarly classified in the higher (54 %) and lower (46 %) price range. We also found that 19 % of selected products advertise niacinamide with the name vitamin B3, and 81 % of products with the name niacinamide.
We can conclude that niacinamide is a vitamin with great potential and the possibility of use in cosmetics, due to its safety and broad-spectrum action.
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