Proučevanje sestave serumov za rast trepalnic

Dolar Bratuša, Alisa (author), Gosenca Matjaž, Mirjam (mentor)

Izrazite trepalnice veljajo za znak lepote, zato ni presenetljivo, da obstaja na trgu veliko različnih kozmetičnih izdelkov, katerih namen je polepšati videz zdravih trepalnic. Za najbolj pogosto uporabljen kozmetični izdelek za dekorativo oči velja maskara, ki začasno ustvari videz gostejših in podaljšanih trepalnic. Trajnejše rezultate pa lahko dosežemo z ostalimi izdelki, kot so na primer serumi za rast trepalnic. Namen slednjih je povečati dolžino, pigmentacijo, ukrivljenost in debelino trepalnice, kar z eno besedo imenujemo trihomegalija. V diplomskem delu smo proučevali sestavo serumov za rast trepalnic, pri čemer smo v nabor nabor vključili 38 izdelkov. Osredotočili smo se na kozmetično aktivne sestavine, ki smo jih razdelili po skupinah glede na kemijsko sestavo in vrednotili njihovo pojavnost v izbranih izdelkih. Za vsako sestavino je opisan mehanizem delovanja na rast trepalnic. Zanimali so nas tudi podatki o ceni, oglaševanju in ovojnini, ki odločilno vplivajo na odločitev pri nakupu izdelka. Kozmetično aktivne sestavine smo razdelili v pet skupin, in sicer si po pogostosti uporabe v serumih sledijo v naslednjem zaporedju: vitamini, peptidi, aminokisline, analogi prostaglandinov in ostale sestavine. Navadno je v enem serumu prisotnih več različnih kozmetično aktivnih sestavin. Mehanizem delovanja se med skupinami razlikuje. Pri vitaminih in aminokislinah ne gre za direkten vpliv na rast trepalnice, ampak vplivajo na strukturo trepalnice in omogočajo normalno rast. Peptidi imajo več različnih mehanizmov delovanja odvisno od peptida, najpogosteje povečajo prekrvavitev in proliferacijo keratinocitov v mešičku trepalnice. Analogi prostaglandinov imajo značilen mehanizem delovanja, in sicer trihomegalijo trepalnic dosežejo z vezavo na prostanoidni receptor na celicah mešička, ki povzroči podaljšanje anagene faze in spodbujanje prehoda mešička trepalnice iz telogene faze v anageno fazo. Poleg tega analogi prostagladinov veljajo za edine kozmetične aktivne sestavine, ki imajo s kliničnimi študijami podprto delovanje na rast trepalnic. Pri vrednotenju cene izdelkov smo opazili, da je ta odvisna od vsebnosti analogov prostaglandinov, ki prispevajo k višji ceni. Vsi pregledani serumi se nahajajo v tubularnih vsebnikih, ki omogočajo nanos na veko.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: trepalnice, serum, trihomegalija, analogi prostaglandinov, peptidi.
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2021
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-127278
• Publication date in RUL: 02.06.2021

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Eyelash growth serums' composition study

Abstract

Prominent eyelashes are considered as a sign of beauty, consequently contributing to many diverse cosmetic products on the market intended to beautify the look of healthy eyelashes. The most commonly used cosmetic product for eye decoration is mascara, which temporarily creates the appearance of thicker and longer lashes. More lasting results can be achieved using other products, including eyelash growth serums that increase the length, pigmentation, curvature and thickness of the eyelashes, namely trichomegaly. Within the diploma thesis, the composition of 38 eyelash growth serums was studied. Special emphasis was given towards cosmetically active ingredients, divided into groups according to chemical composition, and their occurence in selected products. For each component, the mechanism of action on eyelash growth is described. Price, advertising and packaging was also evaluated having a decisive role when purchasing a product. Cosmetically active ingredients are divided into five groups, according to the frequency of use in serums as follows: vitamins, peptides, amino acids, prostaglandin analogues and other ingredients. Usually, several different cosmetically active ingredients are present in one serum. The mechanism of action varies between groups. Vitamins and amino acids do not have a direct effect on eyelash growth, but rather affect the structure of the eyelash and allow normal growth. Peptides have several different mechanisms of action depending on the peptide, most commonly increasing blood flow and keratinocyte proliferation in the eyelash follicle. Prostaglandin analogues have a specific mechanism of action. Trichomegaly of eyelashes is achieved by binding prostaglandin analogues to the prostanoid receptor on follicular cells, which causes prolongation of the anagen phase and stimulates the transition of the eyelash follicle from the telogen phase to the anagen phase. In addition, prostaglandin analogues are considered the only cosmetic active ingredients that have a clinical study-supported effect on eyelash growth. The price of products depends on the content of prostaglandin analogues, contributing to the higher price. All examined serums are found in tubular containers that allow application to the eyelid.

• Keywords: eyelashes, serum, trichomegaly, prostaglandin analogues, peptides.