Nega aknaste kože: primerjava (aktivnih) sestavin in lastnosti kozmetičnih izdelkov različnih cenovnih razredov

Ramšak, Urška (avtor), Zvonar Pobirk, Alenka (mentor)

Akne so ena izmed najpogostejših kožnih bolezni, pojavijo pa se predvsem v obdobju pubertete. Patofiziologija aken je multifaktorialna in vključuje povečano keratinizacijo lasnega folikla, povečano tvorbo sebuma, kolonizacijo Cutibacterium acnes (prej Propionibacterium acnes) in imunski odziv prizadetega tkiva. Poleg tega, da je nagnjenost k nastanku aken dedna, lahko njihov nastanek sprožijo tudi androgeni hormoni, nekatera zdravila, kozmetika in drugi dejavniki. Ločimo različne tipe aknastih lezij, ki zahtevajo tudi različno obravnavo. Na blažje oblike lahko učinkujemo s pomočjo kozmetičnih izdelkov (KI), medtem ko hujše oblike potrebujejo ustrezno obliko zdravljenja. Na tržišču lahko najdemo številne kozmetične izdelke za nego aknaste kože različnih cenovnih razredov. V diplomski nalogi smo proučili skupno 30 različnih KI, od tega 15 izdelkov nižjega in 15 izdelkov višjega cenovnega razreda. Izdelke nižjega cenovnega razreda smo zasledili predvsem na prodajnih policah drogerij, medtem ko so izdelki višjega cenovnega razreda na voljo predvsem v lekarnah. Skoraj vsi izdelki so dostopni tudi na različnih spletnih straneh v Sloveniji. Ugotovili smo, da kot kozmetično aktivne sestavine (KAS) prevladujejo hidroksi kisline, predvsem salicilna kislina, ki spada v skupino aromatskih hidroksi kislin. Kljub temu da v nižje in višje cenovnih KI kot KAS prevladujejo hidroksi kisline, pa KI nižjega in višjega cenovnega razreda v večini primerov ne vsebujejo enakih KAS. Glukonolakton, azelainska kislina in pirokton olamin so KAS, ki smo jih zasledili samo v višje cenovnih KI. Koncentracije aktivnih sestavin so redko navedene, vendar smo jih zasledili tako na nižje kot tudi višje cenovnih KI. Ugotovili smo, da izdelki namenjeni aknasti koži glede na navedene trditve uravnavajo izločanje sebuma in matirajo kožo, zmanjšajo rdečico, pomirijo in regenerirajo kožo ter izkazujejo še nekatere druge za kožo ugodne učinke. Polovica KI oglašuje svojo sestavo kot nekomedogeno, kar pomeni, da izdelek ne vsebuje sestavin, ki bi zamašile pore in povzročile nastanek komedonov in drugih aknastih lezij. V KI za nego aknaste kože redko zasledimo rastlinska olja, saj zaradi potencialnega komedogenega delovanja nekatera niso primerna za nego aknaste kože. Povratna informacija o tem, kako izdelke sprejemajo uporabniki, predstavlja kritično stopnjo v razvoju novega izdelka, zato smo v praktičnem delu naloge izvedli kratek potrošniški test, v katerem je sodelovalo 10 prostovoljcev. Po 3 tednih uporabe dveh KI za nego aknaste kože, različnih cenovnih razredov, so sodelujoči pogosteje opazili izboljšanje problematičnega stanja po uporabi višje cenovnega KI. Še boljši vpogled v delovanje obeh tipov izdelkov bi lahko pridobili z instrumentalnim vrednotenjem specifičnih parametrov kože pred in po uporabi kozmetičnih izdelkov, ki je zanimivo tako v fazi razvoja kot tudi trženja kozmetičnega izdelka.

• Jezik: Slovenski jezik
• Ključne besede: akne, hidroksi kisline, kozmetično aktivne sestavine, potrošniški test, pregled kozmetičnih izdelkov.
• Vrsta gradiva: Diplomsko delo/naloga
• Organizacija: FFA - Fakulteta za farmacijo
• Leto izida: 2020
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-119190
• Datum objave v RUL: 04.09.2020

Sekundarni jezik

• Jezik: Angleški jezik
• Naslov: Skin care products for acne prone skin: comparison of (active) ingredients and properties of cosmetic products of different price classes

Izvleček

Acne is one of the most common skin conditions and occurs mainly during puberty. Pathophysiology of acne is multifactorial and involves increased keratinisation of hair follicle, increased sebum formation, colonisation of Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) and immune response of affected tissue. In addition to the hereditary predisposition to acne, their formation can also be triggered by androgen hormones, certain medicines, cosmetics and other factors. We distinguish between different types of acne lesions which also require different treatment. Milder forms can be treated with the help of cosmetic products, while more severe forms require a professional form of treatment. We can find many cosmetic products in different price ranges for the care of acne prone skin on the market. In this thesis we researched a total of 30 different cosmetic products of which 15 products were lower-end and 15 products of higher-end price. Lower-end products were found mainly on the shelves of hair and beauty stores, while higher-end products were found in pharmacies. Almost all products are also available on various websites in Slovenia. We found that hydroxy acids, mainly salicylic acid which belongs to the group of aromatic hydroxy acids, are prevalent as cometically active ingredients. Despite the fact, that hydroxy acids predominate both in lower- and higher-end cosmetic products, the cosmetic products of the lower and higher price range in most cases do not contain the same active ingredients. Gluconolactone, azelaic acid and piroctone olamine were found only in higher-end cosmetic products. Concentrations of active ingredients are rarely mentioned, but we have found them both in lower- and higher-end cosmetic products. We found that products designed for acne prone skin according to the stated claims often work by regulating sebum secretion and matting the skin, reducing redness, calming and regenerating the skin, and showing other skin-beneficial effects. Half of the cosmetic products advertise their composition as noncomedogenous which means that the product does not contain ingredients that would clog the pores and cause the formation of comedones and other acne lesions. Vegetable oils are rarely found in cosmetic products for acne prone skin, as some can have comedogenic effect. Feedback on how products are accepted by users represents a critical stage in the development of a new product. In the theoretical part of the thesis, we described various tests that can be used to evaluate the properties of cosmetic products and their impact on the acne prone skin. In the practical part of the thesis, we carried out a short consumer test involving 10 volunteers. After 3 weeks of using two cosmetic products in a different price range for the care of acne prone skin, participants more often noticed and improvement of the problematic condition after using a higher-end cosmetic product. An even better insight into the operation of both types of products could be gained through instrumental evaluation of specific skin parameters before and after the use of cosmetic product, which is interesting both in the development and in marketing phase of a cosmetic product.

• Ključne besede: acne, hydroxy acids, cosmetically active ingredients, consumer test, research of cometic products.