Ženska kolekcija Schöneberg

Sladojević, Jakov (author), Fajt, Elena (mentor)

»Oblečem se za podobo – ne zase, ne za javnost, ne za modo, ne za moške,« je rekla Marlene Dietrich. Želel sem oživiti prav to podobo – ne za javnost, ne za modo, niti za moške ali ženske, ampak za tisto, kar resnično mora biti – življenjski slog, čisti način življenja. V magistrskem delu sem zasnoval in izdelal avtorsko kolekcijo, ki sta ju navdihnila lik in delo nemške igralke Marlene Dietrich. Med preučevanjem njenega nenavadnega življenja, spolnosti, kariere in političnih stališč sem obdelal tudi del nemške zgodovine in njenega boja za enakopravnost spolov. Tako je nastala kolekcija petih silhuet, ki so kronološko in konceptualno obravnavala po en vidik njenega življenja in njenega boja za boljšo in pravičnejšo družbo. Simbol brezčasne elegance – elegance, ki še vedno živi z držo – je nedvomno najboljši. Marlene Dietrich je gojila globoko strast do mode tako v profesionalnem kot zasebnem življenju. Ta liberalen pogled skozi oči ženske, ki je spodbujala pogumen in junaški življenjski slog – Marlene – danes služi kot navdih mnogim oblikovalcem in mnogim znanim posameznikom. Če obstaja en način, kako razložiti vsesplošno privlačnost Marlene Dietrich tako do moških kot žensk, je hči legendarne filmske zvezde Marija verjetno najbolje povedala, da je mati svojo spolnost do moških uporabila kot orožje za manipulacijo in nadzor nad njimi. Nekako verjamem, da je Marlene marsikoga resnično razburjala, po drugi strani pa je bila in je še vedno pravi navdih vsem tistim, ki verjamejo, da lahko ena sama podrobnost pretrese ves modni svet. Oblikoval sem kolekcijo ženskih oblačil v katerih sem raziskoval razmerje med biološkim in družbeni spolom ter predstavil moj liberalni odnos do tega razmerja. Prav tako sem obravnaval temo druge svetovne vojne in objektivno kritiziral vse totalitarne režime ter izpostavil pomen demokracije in svobode za normalno delovanje družbe.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: Schöneberg, transvestit, glamur, slog, spolnost, biološki spol, družbeni spol, demokracija, svoboda
• Work type: Master's thesis/paper
• Organization: NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
• Year: 2020
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-117780
• Publication date in RUL: 25.07.2020

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Women's collection Schöneberg

Abstract

“I dress for the image. Not for myself, not for the public, not for fashion, not for men,”- said Marlene. I wanted to revive that very image, not for the public, not for fashion, not even for men or women, but for what it truly needs to be - a lifestyle; pure way of living. In my master's thesis, I designed and produced a unique collection inspired by the character and work of German actress Marlene Dietrich. Studying her peculiar life, sexuality, career and political views, I also covered one part of German history and her struggle for gender equality. This resulted in a collection of five looks, chronologically and conceptually addressing one aspect of her life and her struggle for a better and fairer society. Symbol of timeless elegance - elegance that still lives with attitude - is with no doubt the best one can have when being in love with fashion - like myself. Marlene Dietrich had deep passion for fashion, both in professional and private life. This liberal look through the eyes of a woman, who promoted a brave and courageous lifestyle -Marlene, nowadays serves as an inspiration to many designers and many famous people. Among other boundaries in my thesis the relationship between gender presentation, sexuality and power is quite clear. If there’s one way to explain the universal attraction of Marlene Dietrich to both men and women, the legendary film star’s daughter, Maria, probably put it best saying her mother used her sexuality against men as a weapon to manipulate and control them– but with women, her romantic nature surfaced and she was sincere. Somehow, I believe that Marlene and her double drag truly upset many, but on the other hand was and still is a true inspiration to all those who believe that one single detail can shake up the entire fashion world. I have designed a collection of women's clothing that I want to highlight the importance of liberality in relation to sex and gender. Also, addressing the theme of World War II, I gave objective criticism to all totalitarian regimes and the importance of democracy and freedom for the normal functioning of society. KEYWORDS: Schöneberg

• Keywords: Schöneberg, drag queen, glamor, style, sexuality, sex, gender, democracy, freedom