Pregled in ocena varnosti kozmetičnih sestavin v izdelkih za oblikovanje las, dostopnih na slovenskem tržišču

Pokorn, Nika (author), Sollner Dolenc, Marija (mentor)

Lasje in oblika pričeske so ena prvih vizualnih lastnosti, ki jih opazimo pri človeku. Da lase lažje oblikujemo ter da v takšni obliki ostanejo za daljše časovno obdobje, se poslužujemo kozmetičnih izdelkov za oblikovanje las. Po pregledu literature in ponudbe na tržišču smo ugotovili, da sta terminologija in razdelitev izdelkov na tem področju še precej nedorečeni. Glede na aktivne sestavine, ki jih ti izdelki vsebujejo, smo jih razdelili v dve skupini, in sicer na izdelke z emolienti in izdelke s polimeri. Ker pa na tržišče ves čas prihajajo nove oblike izdelkov, smo v raziskavo vključili še izdelke v obliki pudra. Pregledali smo sestavine 140 naključno izbranih izdelkov, ki jih lahko najdemo v trgovinah po Sloveniji ter na spletnih straneh proizvajalcev. Izmed pregledanih izdelkov je bilo 77 izdelkov s polimeri, 57 izdelkov z emolienti in 6 pudrov. Pri pregledu smo se osredotočili na glavne aktivne sestavine ter sestavine, na katere moramo biti pozorni z vidika varnosti. To so konzervansi, dišave, barvila in UV-filtri. Za najpogostejše sestavine v izdelkih smo nato zbrali še toksikološke podatke, ki so bili na voljo, ter na podlagi teh podatkov ocenjevali njihovo varnost. Kljub zaostrovanju predpisov in spremembam zahtev potrošnikov, ki sili proizvajalce v razvoj novih polimernih sistemov, sta bila v pregledanih izdelkih še vedno najpogostejša kopolimer vinilpirolidona in vinilacetata ter polivinilpirolidon, ki veljata za ena izmed prvih uporabljenih polimerov. S kombinacijo različnih polimerov dosežemo sinergistično delovanje, vendar pa je bilo kljub temu največ takšnih izdelkov s polimeri, ki so vsebovali le en polimerni tvorilec filma. Med emolienti se je najpogosteje pojavil čebelji vosek, v povprečju pa so izdelki z emolienti vsebovali po štiri emoliente. Med konzervansi je bil najpogosteje zastopan fenoksietanol, ki smo ga našli v 58% vseh izdelkov. V izdelkih je bilo prisotnih 16 izmed 26 dišav, ki so znani alergeni, med njimi pa je bil najpogostejši linalol, ki smo ga našli v skoraj dveh tretjinah vseh pregledanih izdelkov. Barvila je vsebovalo 16% vseh izdelkov, od tega je bilo največ obarvanih izdelkov z emolienti. Med največkrat uporabljenimi barvili je bilo briljantno modro barvilo FCF, ki smo ga našli v 30% obarvanih izdelkov. UV-filtre smo našli v četrtini vseh pregledanih izdelkov, med njimi pa je bil daleč najbolj zastopan benzofenon-4, ki se je pojavil v 74% teh izdelkov. Med sabo smo primerjali tudi izdelke devetih različnih proizvajalcev, ki jih najdemo na slovenskem trgu. Med njimi je z vidika varnosti najbolj izstopala znamka samo enega proizvajalca zaradi povprečno največjega števila sestavin v izdelkih in uporabljenih sestavin, ki lahko prispevajo k večjemu tveganju za nastanek iritacij in alergijskih reakcij.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: kozmetični izdelki za oblikovanje las, polimer, emolient, varnost
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2020
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-116163
• Publication date in RUL: 20.05.2020

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Review and safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients in hair styling products, available in the Slovenian market

Abstract

Hairstyles are one of the first visual features to be observed in people. In order for our hairstyle to stay in the desired shape for longer periods of time, we have to use hair styling products. After the review of literature and the offer on the Slovenian market, we have concluded that the terminology and classification of these products are still a little vague. Considering the active ingredients, they are divided into two groups, products containing emollients and products containing polymers. Since there are always new forms of hair styling cosmetics that are put on the market, we have decided to include powder products in our research as well. We analysed 140 randomly selected products, found in Slovenian stores and on the websites of different cosmetics companies. 77 of them were polymer products, 57 emollient products and 6 powders. During our research, we focused mostly on the main active ingredients and the ingredients, which are often questionable in terms of safety - preservatives, fragrances, dyes and UV-filters. Based on toxicological data that was available, we evaluated safety of the most commonly used ingredients. Due to strict regulations and changes in consumers’ needs, manufacturers are forced into developing new polymer systems. However, based on our research, polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer and polyvinylpyrrolidone, polymers that have been used for decades, are still the most commonly present polymers in hair styling products. Synergy can be achieved with the combination of different polymers, yet the products containing only one film-forming polymer were the most frequent. On average, there were four emollients present in emollient products and the most commonly used emollient was beeswax. The most commonly present preservative was phenoxyethanol, which was found in 58% hair styling products. There were 16 out of 26 fragrances, known as allergens, present in reviewed products, among which the most common was linalool, found in nearly two thirds of products. Among all hair styling products only 16% contained dyes, most of which were present in emollient products. The most commonly used dye in coloured products was Brilliant blue FCF, found in 30% of those products. UV-filters were found in one quarter of products, benzophenone-4 being by far the most common, present in 74% of those products. There has also been made a comparison between nine different cosmetics companies, whose products can be found on the Slovenian market. In terms of safety, there was only brand of a certain manufacturer that stood out, due to the highest average number of ingredients and the type of ingredients used, which may increase some risk of causing irritation and allergic reactions.

• Keywords: hair styling products, polymer, emollient, safety