The trend in the cosmetics industry is dictated by consumers themselves. Due to the increasing consumer awareness of environmental and health protection, consumers are increasingly resorting to cosmetics made from natural ingredients (i.e. natural cosmetics). Despite the adverse economic conditions, the cosmetic market is still showing strong growth in recent years. Due to good economic indicators and increased demand for natural cosmetics, many people see this as an interesting entrepreneurial experience. In recent years Slovenia got quite a few boutique manufacturers of natural cosmetic. Skin care products have the largest European market share, where emulsion is the dominant technological form.
The emulsion is made up of three basic components - the inner phase, the outer phase and the emulsifier, but this is by no means sufficient to produce a safe, effective and stable cosmetic product. Cosmetically active ingredients may be added to enhance the effect of cosmetic product. Penetration enhancers are used to enhance the penetration of the active cosmetic ingredient and improve skin feel. Stability is improved by using thickeners. Cosmetic product must be microbiologically safe, so the appropriate preservative must be used.
In our formulation of moisturizing skin care cream (O / V emulsion), we tended to use as many natural ingredients as possible. Distilled water was used for the outer phase and shea butter and argan oil for the inner phase. Olivem® 1000 was used as the emulsifier. Glycerol, allantoin and coco caprylate were used as moisturizers. In addition to its moisturizing properties, allantoin has also a keratoplastic action (softens the stratum corneum). In addition to the moisturizing effect, coco caprylate also improves the lubricity of the emulsion. The emulsion was microbiologically protected with Cosgard preservative and potassium sorbate. Microbiological protection was proven by testing the microbiological quality and challenge test. Pelargonium essential oil was used to improve the smell. The final formulation had a pH in the alkaline range, so a citric acid solution was used and reduced its pH to 5.5.
However, the finished product must be effective and safe to use over time. The safety of a cosmetic product is proven by safety report of cosmetic product. The report consists of two parts: A and B. Part A consists of 10 points. The point 8 is essential for the safety of the cosmetic product, where we have examined the toxicological profiles for all ingredients used and calculated the margin of safety. All ingredients used are in accordance with Regulation 1223/2009 / EC and are safe or used in safe concentrations. The calculated margin of safety of each ingredient was above 100, which is sufficient to ensure that the ingredient is safe. In the second part, we explain our conclusion of the assessment based on the information in part A. We have determined that the product is safe for human health and suitable for sale on the Slovenian market. The cosmetic product safety report is part of the cosmetic product information file and must be retained by the manufacturer for 10 years after the last batch of products has been placed on the market.
Once we have all the documentation in order, we have to notify the product on the cosmetic product notification portal. This can be done online and is free of charge.
The emulsion produced is physically stable and meets microbiological criteria. Product safety was proven by making a safety report. We can conclude that the product is safe to use and can be sold on the Slovenian market. We could further analyze the effectiveness of the cosmetic product (improving skin hydration based on capacitance or conductivity) and obtain certification for natural cosmetics.
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