20.500.12556/RUL-185588 Ascorbic acid and its hydrophilic derivatives in commercial cosmetics a cross-sectional study of their quality control and stability Ascorbic acid and its hydrophilic derivatives, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, are wide used active ingredients in cosmetics, with concentrations increasingly declared on product labels. Since such products are not subject to routine quality control, this study aimed to evaluate the content-related quality and stability of a comprehensive sample of commercial cosmetics. For this purpose, a selective HPLC-UV analytical method for their simultaneous determination was developed, validated, and applied to 41 products. The analysis revealed 0–31.7% (m/m) contents and inappropriate labeling in 22% of the products, including the absence and replacement of the labeled vitamin C form. Over half (57%) of the determined contents corresponded to the labels, which was claimed for 31 products, while the remaining contents were considerably lower (<80%). The stability study, performed on selected cosmetics and standard solutions under ambient and elevated temperatures, demonstrated instability, which could account for their inadequate content. Thus, the instability was found to be temperature-dependent and most pronounced for ascorbic acid, whereas the product price did not show a clear correlation with greater content or stability. Overall, these results highlight the need for proper quality control and stricter cosmetics regulation as well as formulation design to achieve sufficient stabilization, as observed in certain products. 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid active ingredients ascorbic acid ascorbyl glucoside ascorbyl phosphate content HPLC-UV labeling stability indicating method stability testing 3-O-etil askorbinska kislina aktivne sestavine askorbinska kislina askorbil glukozid askorbil fosfati vsebnost HPLC-UV označevanje metoda za določanje stabilnosti testiranje stabilnosti kozmetični izdelki kozmetika true false true Angleški jezik Slovenski jezik Članek v reviji 2026-08-11 12:30:04 2026-08-11 12:30:09 2026-08-12 04:03:49 0000-00-00 00:00:00 2026 0 0 23 str. iss. 4, art. no.195 Vol. 13 2026 0000-00-00 Zaloznikova Objavljeno NiDoloceno 0000-00-00 0000-00-00 0000-00-00 687.5.05+665.58 2079-9284 10.3390/cosmetics13040195 287443459 cosmetics-13-00195.pdf cosmetics-13-00195.pdf 1 248D204938CF887F6ABDD1F851F088E2 2a5b3fe7a00857950c675554e53f97bda9b507e9efb087e27c95698336259aa5 869f1ec1-956f-11f1-9b0d-0050569b8976 https://repozitorij.uni-lj.si/Dokument.php?lang=slv&id=244260 https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/13/4/195 1 46b534c0-956f-11f1-9b0d-0050569b8976 https://repozitorij.uni-lj.si/Dokument.php?lang=slv&id=244259 Fakulteta za farmacijo 0 0 0