Razvoj in vrednotenje krem s hidroliziranimi proteini svile, pšenice ali ovsa

Andlovec, Iris (avtor), Gašperlin, Mirjana (mentor), Bjelošević Žiberna, Maja (komentor)

V okviru diplomskega dela smo razvili in optimirali sestavo dveh krem, namenjenih negi kože, nagnjene k aknam, ter sistematično preučili vpliv treh kozmetično aktivnih sestavin (alantoin, bisabolol in vitamin B3) ter hidroliziranih proteinov svile, pšenice in ovsa na organoleptične lastnosti, pH ter reološke lastnosti formulacij. Formulacije smo ovrednotili takoj po njihovi pripravi in po enem mesecu shranjevanja na sobni temperaturi. V predhodnih testiranjih smo ovrednotili širši nabor koncentracij izbranih kozmetično aktivnih sestavin, in sicer alantoina (0,5 %, 1 %, 2 %), bisabolola (0,1 %, 0,3 %, 0,5 %) in vitamina B3 (3 %, 4 %, 5 %). Pri hidroliziranih proteinih so bile uporabljene naslednje koncentracije: proteini svile – 10 %, proteini pšenice – 2,5 % in proteini ovsa – 2,5 %. Na podlagi dobljenih rezultatov smo za nadaljnjo optimizacijo izbrali dve osnovni formulaciji: formulacijo B (0,5 % alantoina, 0,5 % bisabolola, 5 % vitamina B3) in formulacijo C (1 % alantoina, 0,5 % bisabolola, 5 % vitamina B3), pri čemer smo v obeh preučevali tudi vpliv dodatka posameznih hidroliziranih proteinov. Vse kreme so izkazovale želene psevdoplastične reološke lastnosti in stabilen pH v območju 4,5–5,5, kar je ustrezno za nanos na kožo. Dodane koncentracije hidroliziranih proteinov so vplivale na viskoznost in njene spremembe s časom, pri čemer so bile izražene razlike med posameznimi vrstami proteinov. Najizrazitejši učinek znižanja viskoznosti je bil opažen pri proteinih svile, najstabilnejše reološko obnašanje pa so izkazovale kreme s hidroliziranimi proteini ovsa. Pri organoleptičnem vrednotenju formulacij med shranjevanjem se je izkazalo, da se je izgled krem spreminjal glede na vrsto dodanih proteinov. Najbolj izrazita sprememba je bila vidna pri formulacijah s proteini svile, kjer je bilo po enem mesecu opazno obarvanje v rjavkast odtenek. Nasprotno so formulacije s proteini ovsa ohranile nespremenjen izgled. Zaključimo lahko, da so se med formulacijami z dodatkom proteinov, hidrolizirani proteini ovsa izkazali kot najboljša izbira, zlasti v formulaciji B s 5  % vitamina B3, kjer je bila dosežena najboljša kombinacija fizikalne in kemijske stabilnosti ter primernih senzoričnih lastnosti.

• Jezik: Slovenski jezik
• Ključne besede: kozmetični izdelek, krema, hidrolizirani proteini svile, pšenice, ovsa, stabilnost, pH, viskoznost
• Vrsta gradiva: Diplomsko delo/naloga
• Organizacija: FFA - Fakulteta za farmacijo
• Leto izida: 2025
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-173402
• Datum objave v RUL: 17.09.2025

Sekundarni jezik

• Jezik: Angleški jezik
• Naslov: Development and evaluation of creams with hydrolyzed silk, wheat or oat proteins

Izvleček

As part of this thesis, we developed and optimized the composition of two creams intended for the care of acne-prone skin and systematically examined the influence of three cosmetic active ingredients (allantoin, bisabolol, and vitamin B3) as well as hydrolysed silk, wheat, and oat proteins on the organoleptic properties, pH, and rheological characteristics of the formulations. The formulations were evaluated immediately after preparation and after one month of storage at room temperature. In preliminary testing, we assessed a broader range of concentrations for the selected cosmetic active ingredients, namely allantoin (0.5%, 1%, 2%), bisabolol (0.1%, 0.3%, 0.5%), and vitamin B3 (3%, 4%, 5%). For the hydrolysed proteins, the concentrations applied were as follows: silk proteins – 10%, wheat proteins – 2.5%, and oat proteins – 2.5%. Based on these results, two basic formulations were selected for further optimization: formulation B (0.5% allantoin, 0.5% bisabolol, 5% vitamin B3) and formulation C (1% allantoin, 0.5% bisabolol, 5% vitamin B3), where the influence of adding both respective types of hydrolyzed protein to each of the formulations was also assessed. All creams exhibited the desired pseudoplastic rheological characteristics and maintained a stable pH within the range of 4.5–5.5, which is suitable for skin application. The added concentrations of hydrolysed proteins influenced viscosity levels and their variation over time, with differences observed between respective protein types. The most pronounced viscosity level reduction was observed in formulations containing silk proteins, whereas creams with hydrolysed oat proteins demonstrated the most stable rheological behaviour. The organoleptic assessment process during storage revealed that the appearance of the creams varied depending on the type of protein added. The most noticeable change was observed in formulations containing silk proteins, where after one month, a browning coloration was developed. On the other hand, formulations with oat proteins maintained their unchanged appearance. In conclusion, hydrolysed oat proteins proved to be the most suitable choice from among formulations containing proteins, particularly those in formulation B with 5 % vitamin B3, where the most optimal combination of physical and chemical stability as well as desirable sensory properties was achieved.

• Ključne besede: cosmetic product, cream, hydrolysed silk proteins, wheat proteins, oat proteins, stability, pH, viscosity