During the aging process, numerous histological and molecular changes occur, affecting the structure, function, and external appearance of the skin. Appropriate cosmetic care is one of the approaches that can slow down this process and contribute to maintaining a youthful appearance of the skin. Bioactive peptides have established themselves in cosmetology as an important group of cosmetic active ingredients, acting through various mechanisms and influencing biological functions in the deeper layers of the skin. Due to their characteristically high concentration of active ingredients, serums are an excellent choice of cosmetic product form for the delivery of bioactive peptides.
In the framework of this thesis, we developed and evaluated a serum with bioactive peptides SNAP-8™, Argireline® Amplified, and Uplevity™ e-Lift. Based on a ternary phase diagram, we designed a stable microemulsion base, which was upgraded with excipients and formulated into a serum. Selected peptides were then incorporated into the formulation to prepare the final serum. As part of the preliminary evaluation, we conducted a sensory analysis of the prepared serum with and without incorporated peptides, involving 15 female volunteers, and further assessed the effects of the serum on skin properties in vivo in four volunteers using non-invasive instrumental measurements. In the sensory testing, the volunteers evaluated both serums (with and without incorporated peptides) as spreadable, non-sticky, and fast-absorbing. The serum with incorporated peptides was additionally perceived as providing a more pronounced feeling of hydration, firmness, and softness of the skin, which is why most volunteers stated they would include it in their daily skincare routine. Both serums indicated favorable effects on the improvement of skin barrier function, increased hydration, and soothing of the skin, with the serum containing peptides showing more pronounced effects.
Based on the results, it can be concluded that both developed formulations are stable, with suitable sensory properties, and promising in improving skin condition, with the serum containing peptides demonstrating a slightly more favorable effect. For a reliable assessment of efficacy, further studies on a larger group of volunteers with regular product use over a longer period would be advisable.
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