Razvoj šamponov za lase z izvlečkom amle (Emblica officinalis) in brahmija (Bacopa monnieri) v prahu

Japelj, Neža (avtor), Bjelošević Žiberna, Maja (mentor)

Diplomska naloga se osredotoča na razvoj šamponov za lase z izvlečkom amle in brahmija v prahu. Amla in brahmi sta rastlini, ki ju pogosto najdemo v tradicionalni indijski medicini, ajurvedi. Obe rastlini imata zaradi svoje kemijske sestave pozitiven vpliv na stanje lasišča in las. Visoka vsebnost taninov amle pomaga pri ohranjanju barve las, krepi lase in pomaga zmanjšati prhljaj zaradi njihovega protimikrobnega delovanja. V brahmiju so ključni alkaloidi, ki pomagajo pri čiščenju lasnih mešičkov in izboljšujejo prekrvavitev lasišča. Odločili smo se za izdelavo šampona za lase, saj je to najpogostejši kozmetični izdelek za nego las. Pri tem smo se osredotočali na izbiro najbolj optimalnega zgoščevala za šampone, ki bi privedlo do stabilne formulacije in omogočilo homogeno razporeditev rastlinskih izvlečkov v prahu po formulaciji. V prvem delu smo ugotavljali ustrezno koncentracijo NaCl in sekundarne površinsko aktivne snovi za najboljšo stabilnost osnovne formulacije šampona brez vgrajenih rastlinskih izvlečkov in zgoščeval. Ugotovili smo, da je najbolj stabilna osnovna formulacija z 1,5 % NaCl in 3 % kokamidopropilbetaina. V naslednjem koraku smo proučevali kompatibilnost različnih zgoščeval za šampone v kombinaciji s kozmetično aktivno sestavino. V okviru te diplomske naloge smo testirali naslednja zgoščevala v različnih koncentracijah: hidroksietilceluloza, hidroksipropilmetilceluloza in ksantan. Pri določenih formulacijah smo opazili izrazito nekompatibilnost med izvlečkom amle v prahu in hidroskipropilmetilcelulozo, kar se je izražalo v obliki tvorbe grudic. Ugotovili smo, da se pri kombinaciji hidroksipropilmetilceluloze in ksantana kompatibilnost z izvlečkom amle v prahu izboljša. Najbolj optimalna formulacija šampona z izvlečkom amle vsebuje 0,5 % izvlečka amle v prahu v kombinaciji z 0,3 % hidroksipropilmetilceluloze K100M in 0,2 % ksantana. Ta formulacija je izkazovala tudi najbolj primerne reološke lastnosti. Izvleček brahmija v prahu je bil kompatibilen s hidroksipropilmetilcelulozo, in sicer najbolj optimalna formulacija vsebuje 0,5 % izvlečka brahmija v kombinaciji z 0,5 % hidroksipropilmetilceluloze. Na podlagi rezultatov lahko zaključimo, da pravilna izbira in kombinacija zgoščeval omogoča razvoj stabilnih šamponov z izvlečkoma amle in brahmija v prahu.

• Jezik: Slovenski jezik
• Ključne besede: šampon, izvleček amle v prahu, izvleček brahmija v prahu, zgoščevala, stabilnost
• Vrsta gradiva: Diplomsko delo/naloga
• Organizacija: FFA - Fakulteta za farmacijo
• Leto izida: 2025
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-172158
• Datum objave v RUL: 06.09.2025

Sekundarni jezik

• Jezik: Angleški jezik
• Naslov: Development of hair shampoos with amla (Emblica officinalis) and brahmi (Bacopa monnieri) powder extract

Izvleček

The diploma thesis focuses on the development of hair shampoos with amla and brahmi powder extract. Amla and brahmi are plants commonly found in the traditional Indian medicine, Ayurveda. Both plants have a positive effect on the condition of the scalp and hair due to their chemical composition. The high tannin content of amla helps to maintain hair colour, strengthens hair and helps to reduce dandruff due to its antimicrobial action. Brahmi contains key alkaloids that help detoxify the hair follicles and improve blood circulation to the scalp. We decided to make a hair shampoo because it is the most common cosmetic product for hair care. We focused on choosing the most optimal thickener for shampoos, which would lead to a stable formulation and allow a homogeneous distribution of the powdered plant extracts throughout the formulation. In the first step, we determined the appropriate NaCl and secondary surfactant concentration for the best stability of the base shampoo formulation without incorporated plant extracts and thickeners. We found that the most stable base formulation was the one with 1.5% NaCl and 3% cocamidopropylbetaine. In the next step, we studied the compatibility of different shampoo thickeners in combination with a cosmetic active ingredient. In the process of this thesis, the following thickeners were tested in different concentrations: hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, and xanthan. In certain formulations, a strong incompatibility between the amla powder extract and the hydroxypropyl methylcellulose was observed, which was expressed as the formation of lumps. We found that the combination of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose and xanthan improves the compatibility with amla powder extract. The most optimal shampoo formulation with amla contains 0.5% amla powder extract combined with 0.3% hydroxypropyl methylcellulose K100M and 0.2% xanthan. This formulation also exhibited the most appropriate rheological properties. The brahmi powder extract was compatible with hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, namely the most optimal formulation contains 0.5% brahmi extract combined with 0.5% hydroxypropyl methylcellulose. Based on the results, it can be concluded that the proper selection and combination of thickeners enables the development of stable shampoos containing amla and brahmi powder extracts.

• Ključne besede: shampoo, amla extract powder, brahmi extract powder, thickeners, stability