Utility of video analysis and expert modelling for technique development in novice sport climbers : a randomized controlled study

Blagus, Rok (avtor), Leskošek, Bojan (avtor), Okršlar, Luka (avtor), Vreček, Nace (avtor), Debevec, Tadej (avtor)

Sport climbing is a multifaceted sport that also requires appropriate techniques to optimize movements. As augmented feedback is known to facilitate motor learning, we investigated the utility of adding video analysis and expert modelling to standardized verbal feedback for the acquisition of three climbing-specific techniques (drop knee, heel hook and high step). Twenty-six novice climbers (12 women) completed two testing sessions before and after a training intervention that consisted of three coached climbing sessions targeting the three techniques. Participants were randomly assigned to a control group, which solely received standardized verbal feedback or an experimental group that additionally received standardized video analysis and expert modelling using the Dartfish tablet application. Video recordings were subsequently evaluated by two climbing experts on a 7-point scale. The expert scores were higher in the experimental than in the control group for the high step (causal total effect (CTE) 0.38, 95% confidence interval (CI) [0.06, 0.68]). Improvements for the drop knee (CTE = 0.12, 95% CI [−0.24, 0.48]) and heel hook (CTE = −0.05, 95% CI [−0.42, 0.31]) were similar in both groups. For the drop knee, we, however, observed a positive causal direct effect (CDE = 0.38, 95% CI [0.07, 0.68]), which was comparable to that observed for the high step but also a negative causal mediator effect via the perceived difficulty (CME = −0.26, 95% CI [−0.51, −0.04]). Compared to verbal feedback solely, the addition of video analysis and expert modelling might facilitate the acquisition of certain climbing techniques, such as high step, in novice climbers.

• Jezik: Angleški jezik
• Ključne besede: sport, augmented feedback, gender, movement analysis, skill learning
• Vrsta gradiva: Članek v reviji
• Tipologija: 1.01 - Izvirni znanstveni članek
• Organizacija: FŠ - Fakulteta za šport ; MF - Medicinska fakulteta
• Status publikacije: Objavljeno
• Različica publikacije: Objavljena publikacija
• Leto izida: 2024
• Št. strani: Str. 355–367
• Številčenje: Vol. 19, iss. 1
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-154251-6791e646-660e-455a-b920-002ad31be92d
• UDK: 796.01
• ISSN pri članku: 2048-397X
• DOI: 10.1177/17479541231152548
• COBISS.SI-ID: 140667651
• Datum objave v RUL: 05.02.2024

Gradivo je del revije

• Naslov: International journal of sports science & coaching
• Založnik: SAGE
• ISSN: 2048-397X
• COBISS.SI-ID: 525537561

Licence

• Licenca: CC BY 4.0, Creative Commons Priznanje avtorstva 4.0 Mednarodna
• Povezava: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.sl
• Opis: To je standardna licenca Creative Commons, ki daje uporabnikom največ možnosti za nadaljnjo uporabo dela, pri čemer morajo navesti avtorja.

Sekundarni jezik

• Jezik: Slovenski jezik
• Ključne besede: šport, razširjene povratne informacije, spol, analiza gibanja, učenje spretnosti

Projekti

• Financer: ARRS - Agencija za raziskovalno dejavnost Republike Slovenije
• Številka projekta: P3-0154
• Naslov: Metodologija za analizo podatkov v medicini

• Financer: ARRS - Agencija za raziskovalno dejavnost Republike Slovenije
• Številka projekta: N5-0152
• Naslov: Mehanizmi hipoksične (in)tolerance pri predčasno rojenih posameznikih